Winchester (United Kingdom)

From Imakoopedia

Winchester is a cathedral city in Hampshire, in the South of England and the Saxon capital of England.

Winchester Cathedral as seen from the Cathedral Close
Winchester Cathedral as seen from the Cathedral Close
Table of contents

Understand

Winchester has a long history - there has been a continuous settlement at the site for over 2,000 years. Before the Roman invasion of Britain it began as a hill fort, then under the Romans the town grew and was known as Venta Belgarum. After the Romans left, during Saxon times, King Alfred the Great named Winchester as the capital of Wessex and later England, and it remained so until the Norman invasion of 1066. In the middle ages the town became renowned for its woollen goods.

These days, Winchester is an attractive, peaceful cathedral city deep in the English countryside yet not far from London and Southampton.

A visitor staying in London but with a day to spare and a desire to see more of England could do much worse than simply to hop on a train to Winchester (which gives good views of the southern English countryside) and spend the day wandering around Winchester.

Get in

By plane

The most convenient airports are:

  • Southampton Airport (http://www.baa.co.uk/main/airports/southampton/) is a relatively small airport and serves destinations in the UK and Europe. It is about 8 miles drive from Winchester via the M3 (northbound). There is a direct rail service from Southampton Airport Parkway station, which is immediately adjacent to the airport terminal building, to Winchester; four trains an hour take about 10 minutes for the journey.
  • London Heathrow Airport (http://www.baa.co.uk/main/airports/heathrow/) is about 60 miles drive from Winchester via the M25 (anti-clockwise) and the M3 (southbound). There is a RailAir (http://www.swtrains.co.uk/transportlinks/woking.htm) coach service to Woking station, where mainline trains to Winchester can be boarded; two services an hour give a journey time of just under two hours for the whole journey.
  • London Gatwick Airport (http://www.baa.co.uk/main/airports/gatwick/) is about 80 miles drive from Winchester via the M23 (northbound), M25 (clockwise) and M3 (southbound) motorways. By train, catch a London bound train which stops at Clapham Junction (note that the heavily advertised Gatwick Express do not stop there) from the airport rail station, and change at Clapham Junction for a service to Winchester; two or three services an hour give a journey time of just under two hours for the whole journey.

By train

Winchester has a station on the main line from London to Southampton, Bournemouth, Poole and Weymouth. It is also served by long-distance services from Reading, Oxford, Birmingham and places further north.

From London, travel from London Waterloo rail station; there are several trains an hour which take about one hour for the journey. Train times (from any location) can be found on the National Rail Planner (http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/planmyjourney/) or by calling 0845-748-4950 from anywhere in the UK.

By bus

National Express (http://www.nationalexpress.com) operate services to Winchester from cities throughout the UK including London. Advanced ticketing is required.

For those with a special interest in cathedral cities, Wilts & Dorset (http://www.wdbus.co.uk/) operate the branded Cathedral Connection between Salisbury and Winchester, taking in some very attractive countryside on route. Despite its branding, this is a rural bus service (number 68) with no need for advance ticketing; it operates six times a day (except Sundays) and takes about an hour and a half for the journey. Timetable details can be found on the website, or by telephoning 01722-336855 from anywhere in the UK.

By car

The town is conveniently situated for the M3 motorway (US English: freeway) also from London to Southampton. An excellent Park+Ride site is located just off junction 10 of the M3 (from M3 north, exit at junction 9 and follow the signs) and buses provide a link to the city center every 10-15mins taking under 10 mins for the journey. Operates M-F 7:30am-6:30pm; Sa 8am-6pm; Su no service; £1.50 per car (incl. all passengers).

Get around

If you are planning to do any visiting or exploring beyond central Winchester, you will probably want to obtain a decent map of the area. You should ensure that any map you buy clearly shows the national grid reference lines, and explains how to use them, as grid references are frequently used to indicate out of town locations. The best maps for this purpose are those published by the Ordnance Survey (Britain's national mapping agency) and the following maps cover all the locations mentioned below:

  • Ordnance Survey Landranger 185. This map covers the area around Winchester at a scale of 1:50000 and is best for exploration by car or cycle.
  • Ordnance Survey Explorer 132. This map covers the area around Winchester at a scale of 1:25000 and is best for walking.

These maps can be found in any good local bookshop, or can be bought online from the Ordnance Survey's web site (http://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/).

By foot

Most of the things to see and do in Winchester, and the places to eat, drink and sleep are within easy walking distance of each other and the rail station.

By bus

Winchester has a reasonable bus service, both within the town and to the surrounding area, although frequencies can be quite low with little service in the evenings or on Sunday.

  • Stagecoach in Hampshire (http://www.stagecoachbus.com/hampshire/), telephone 0845-121-0180 from within in the UK, operate most of the bus services in the city and surrounding area.
  • Solent Blue Line (http://www.solentblueline.com/), telephone 023-8061-8233 from within the UK, operate services from the city to the south.
  • Traveline (http://www.traveline.org.uk/), telephone 087-608-2-608 from within the UK, provide an impartial online travel planner and telephone query service for all local bus services.

By car

Winchester is quite small, and although it can be quite congested the congestion doesn't last for long. However parking can be difficult; if visiting for the day consider using the Park+Ride described above.

See

Central Winchester

The following things to see are all within easy walking distance of each other and the rail station.

  • Winchester Cathedral (http://www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk/), tel: 853224. A Norman cathedral begun in 1079, containing the Winchester Bible and featuring the longest Gothic nave in the world. An interesting fact is that the Cathedral was built on rafts floating on a peat marsh!. For 800 years the raft was able to carry the weight but, by the 19th century, the Cathedral was in danger of collapse and the foundations were rebuilt by a diver working under water; look out for the statue and story of the Winchester Diver if you visit. Open every day, 8:30am-6pm (restricted access during services). Admission free (suggested donation £3.50).
  • Dean Garnier Garden (http://www.cityofwinchester.co.uk/parks/garnier/garnier.html) in the Cathedral Close. This lies on the site of the dormitory of the Benedictine Monastery and offers splendid views of the Cathedral. Pay special attention to the stonework, and how the medieaval builders suffered from problems with subsidence. Open during daylight hours. Free.
  • The old City Centre, with its narrow pedestrian streets and overhanging mediaeval buildings. Of especial interest are the Pentice, a group of old shops arcaded at the front, and the Butter Cross, dating back to the 15th century and built with a tax levied on people caught eating butter during Lent. Always open. Free.
  • The Great Hall and King Arthurs Round Table (http://www.hants.gov.uk/discover/places/great-hall.html), The Castle, tel 846476. The only remaining part of Winchester Castle is the Great Hall, built in the thirteenth century by Henry III. This is the home of the world famous Arthurs Round Table; although this is now thought to be a fake commissioned by Henry VIII. Open every day 10am-5pm; closed Dec 25-26. Free (but donations gratefully accepted).
  • The River Itchen, a crystal clear chalk-upland stream that flows through multiple channels in central Winchester, seemingly just to surprise visitors by its tinkling presence at every turn. Always open. Free.
  • Winchester City Mill (http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/places/winchestercitymill/) Bridge Street, tel 870057. Owned by the National Trust, this old water mill has been restored to working order and you can visit the working areas and a rather exciting walkway under the mill almost at river level. The building also houses a National Trust shop and the Winchester Youth Hostel (see 'Sleep'). Opening hours are very complex, but the mill is open Mar-Oct Sa-Su 11am-4pm and much more often in summer; visit the web site or phone the number above for more details. £2 (adult); £1 (children); free to National Trust members.
  • Winchester College (http://www.winchestercollege.org/), College Street, tel 621100. One of England's old public (US English:private) schools, founded in 1382 and believed to be the oldest continuously running school in the country. Guided tours are available, lasting approximately 1 hour and include Chamber Court; the Gothic Chapel with its 14th century vaulted roof; College Hall; the 17th century red brick schoolroom built in the style of Christopher Wren and the original Cloister. Walk in tours available most every day, see web site or phone above for times. £3-4.
  • Wolvesey Castle (http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/filestore/VisitsEvents/asp/visits/Details.asp?Property_Id=232), tel 854766. This palace was the chief residence of the Bishops of Winchester and its extensive ruins still reflect their importance and wealth. Open Apr-Sep 10am-5pm. Free.
  • St. Swithun's upon Kingsgate. This tiny church is perched atop the arch of the Kingsgate, one of the two surviving city gates. This was once a not uncommon position for a place of worship, but St. Swithun's is the only one remaining today. The interior is very plain, with whitewashed walls and an unadorned wooden ceiling. Sit for a moment in the simple wooden pews and it is hard not to feel a sense of peace. Open during daylight hours except for occasional services. Free (but donations gratefully accepted).

Surrounding Area

The area around Winchester contains some very attractive scenery and some interesting attractions. Use of a car (or a bicycle) is a near necessity for exploring most of these, although with patience and careful use of a bus timetable some are accessible by public transport.

  • The Hospital of St Cross (http://www.hants.gov.uk/discover/places/stcross.html), St Cross Road ,Winchester (1 mile south of city centre; grid reference SU476277), telephone 878218. The Hospital of St Cross was founded in the 1130´s by Bishop Henry of Blois to accomodate thirteen poor men and is still home to 25 Brothers, whose apartments form one side of the historic quadrangle. The chapel is an unspoiled example of the period during which Norman architecture transitions into Gothic. The Hospital has a long tradition of hospitality and now offers refreshment to visitors in the restored Hundred Men's Hall. The traditional Wayfarer's Dole is still given at the Porter's Gate to all travellers who request it. Accessible by road, by a half-hour walk along the River Itchen (from City Mill; signposted), or by Solent Blue Line bus 47 (buses run twice per hour M-Sa and once per hour on Su; see Get Around above for bus company details; alight at the Bell Inn). Open any reasonable hour. Free.
  • Mid-Hants Railway (http://www.watercressline.co.uk/), The Railway Station, Alresford (5 miles east of Winchester on the A31; grid reference SU587324), telephone 733810. Often known as the Watercress Line, this preserved steam railway follows the route of an old line from Alresford to Alton which was abandoned in the 1970s. The stations and trains are carefully restored to bring back the atmosphere of a Southern Railway journey in the first decades of the twentieth century. Accessible by road or by Stagecoach buses 64 and X64 (buses run twice per hour M-Sa and every two hours on Su; see Get Around above for bus company details; alight at the Swan Hotel, New Alresford). Operates on Sa and Su from Apr-Oct, and some weekdays May-Sep; See their website or telephone the number above for details. £10 (adults); £9 (seniors); £5 (children).
  • Marwell Zoological Park (http://www.marwell.org.uk/), Colden Common (6 miles south-east of Winchester on the B2177; grid reference SU506217), telephone 07626-943163 from within the UK. The Park has over 200 rare and endangered species of animals. The Marwell Preservation Trust is dedicated to conservation and increased knowledge of all living creatures. Accessible by road or by Stagecoach bus 69 (4 buses on Su only; see Get Around above for bus company details). Open Apr-Oct M-Su 10am-6pm; Nov-Mar M-Su 10am-4pm; last admission 90 minutes before close; closed Dec 25th. £11.50 (adult); £9.50 (senior or student); £8 (child).

Do

Walks

  • Walk the Three Castles Path (http://www.ramblers.org.uk/info/paths/threecastles.html), a 60 mile walk from Windsor to Winchester. This walk is inspired by the journeys of King John between the two cities via the castle he built at Odiham at the time of Magna Carta, and passes through a variety of attractive scenery including parkland and forest, heath and downland, quiet streams and picturesque villages. For more information see the web site, or get a hold of a copy of the book 'The Three Castles Path' by David Bounds and Dave Ramm (ISBN:1874258082).
  • The South Downs Way (http://www.nationaltrails.gov.uk/southdownsframeset.htm) is a 100-mile bridleway running from Winchester to Eastbourne. It offers spectacular views of the South's countryside.

Fairs & Festivals

  • Winchester Hat Fair is Britain's longest running festival of street theatre. In a typical year, over 30,000 people flock to the city streets to watch this festival of street theatre which combines a mix of circus, clowning, outlandish performances, craft stalls, workshops and world music. First weekend in July, F-Su. Free; but expect to see lots of hats being passed around for donations (hence the name).

Buy

To be honest, Winchester is not really a major shopping center. You can buy all the normal things you would expect in an English city of 30-odd thousand souls, but that is about it. If you want a shopping experience, go to Southampton, Reading or London.

  • The Cathedral Shop (http://www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk/visiting/shop.htm) . Housed in an old Coach House just 25 metres from the West Front of the Cathedral, this shop offers a range of gifts, many of them unique to the Cathedral. Open Mar-Oct M-Su 9:30am–5:30pm; Nov-Feb M-Su 9:30am–5:00pm.

Eat

Winchester High Street, The Pentice and The Butter Cross during Winchester Hat Fair
Winchester High Street, The Pentice and The Butter Cross during Winchester Hat Fair

There are lots of places to eat in central Winchester, and a good way to find one is simply to keep your eyes open as you visit. Here is a small selection recommended by individual Imakoopedialers. The prices are best guesses for a meal including drinks & tips.

  • The Refectory (http://www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk/visiting/refectory.htm), in the walled garden opposite the Cathedral west front. An excellent volunteer run restaurant opposite the main entrance to the cathedral, offering a good selection of homely English dishes at reasonable prices. Open Mar-Oct 9.30am-5.00pm; Nov-Feb 9.30am-4.30pm. £5-10.
  • Ask Pizza and Pasta, God Begot House, 101 High Street, tel 849464. This restaurant serves good value pizzas and pasta dishes in a relaxing, family friendly atmosphere. It is situated in one of the oldest and most historic domestic buildings in the city. Open M-Su noon-11pm. £~20.
  • Loch Fyne (http://www.loch-fyne.com/pages/content.asp?PageID=232&RestID=45), 18 Jewry Street, tel 872930. This restaurant provides excellent (and apparently eco-friendly) seafood in an attractive environment in the city center. Open M–F 9am-11pm; Sa-Su 10am-10pm. £~30.
  • Hotel du Vin (http://www.hotelduvin.com/default.asp?pgid=22), 14 Southgate St, tel 841414. A town-house bistro in the centre of Winchester, popular with locals and visitors alike. See also 'Sleep' below. £~40.

Drink

Winchester has a good selection of city center pubs. The best approach is to take note as you wander around, and go to one you like the look of.

Sleep

There are many different places to sleep in Winchester. The following can only be a set of suggestions. The prices quoted are negotiable, and a good starting point would be to use one of the online booking services, such as Expedia (http://www.expedia.co.uk/).

  • Winchester Youth Hostel (http://www.yha.org.uk/hostel/hostelpages/109.html), 1 Water Lane, tel 853723 . A very central but quite basic YHA (http://www.yha.org.uk/) youth hostel located in the historic City Mill (see 'See'). Open Mar-Oct but days and hours vary; visit the web site or phone the number above for more details. £11 (adult); £8 (under 18).
  • Wykeham Arms, 75 Kingsgate St, tel 853834. A well run, well regarded pub near the Cathedral and College, with 14 comfortable bedrooms. £90-120 (double room including breakfast).
  • Hotel du Vin (http://www.hotelduvin.com/default.asp?pgid=4), 14 Southgate St, tel 841414. Housed in an attractive city center Queen Anne townhouse, the Hotel du Vin has 23 cosy bedrooms. The best rooms overlook the hotel garden. See also 'Eat' above. £109-185 (double room).
  • The Winchester Royal Hotel (http://www.marstonhotels.com/cgi/go.pl?page_id=details&hot=16), St. Peter St, tel 840840. Built as a private residence in the mid 16th century, it has served as a bishop's house, a Benedictine convent and, since 1857, an hotel. The hotel is located close to the Cathedral and has 75 bedrooms. £99 (single room), £129 (double room).
  • The Wessex Hotel (http://www.macdonald-hotels.co.uk/static/Hotels/Wessex_(The).htm), Paternoster Row, tel 0800 400 9090 (from within UK only). A functional hotel built in the 1970s adjacent to the Cathedral, with 91 bedrooms. £70-130 (single room including breakfast), £110-130 (double room including breakfast).

Contact

Phone

Winchester's area code is 01962 when dialed from within the UK or +441962 from outside the UK.

Get out

  • Visit the New Forest, about half an hours drive or a short through train journey away.

External links

  • Visit Winchester (http://www.visitwinchester.co.uk/), the web site of the Winchester Tourist Information Center.


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