San Francisco

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The Golden Gate Bridge
The Golden Gate Bridge

San Francisco is a bustling cosmopolitan city in California, the centerpiece of the Bay Area, well-known for its large gay and Chinese communities, hilly and picturesque terrain, and history of earthquakes.

It is located on the tip of a peninsula by San Francisco Bay and the Pacific coast and has a population of around 750,000. It is 7 miles by 7 miles in size. The best times to visit are September and October because they are mostly fog free.

Table of contents
1 Districts
2 Get in

2.1 By plane
2.2 By train
2.3 By boat
2.4 By car

3 Get around

3.1 On foot
3.2 By public transit
3.3 By bike
3.4 By taxi
3.5 By car
3.6 Finding your way around

4 See

4.1 Golden Gate Bridge

5 Do
6 Eat
7 Respect
8 Get out
9 External links
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Districts

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Get in

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By plane

There are three airports in the San Francisco Bay Area: San Francisco (SFO, located about 10 miles south of the city), Oakland (OAK, in the East Bay), and San Jose (SJO, in the Silicon Valley, about 1 hour south of San Francisco). Both Oakland and San Jose are served by discount airlines such as Southwest. All three airports may be reached by inexpensive public transit; San Francisco and Oakland are connected to downtown SF by the BART rapid-transit train; the San Jose airport is linked by BART and CalTrain, connecting at Millbrae, with a free shuttle bus between the Santa Clara CalTrain stop and the San Jose airport. Rental cars and discount remote parking at SFO are reached by AirTrain, a free elevated people mover which also provides inter-terminal transfers. San Jose airport is currently undergoing major construction that can sometimes cause significant road traffic delays.

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By train

Amtrak serves the Bay Area with long distance and inter-city trains, but none of these actually reach San Francisco. Instead passengers must transfer, at the Amtrak station at Emeryville in the East Bay, to a bus service which crosses the Bay Bridge to the Amtrak San Francisco station at 101 The Embarcadero (near the Ferry Building). Amtrak can be contacted on +1-800-872-7245. The Amtrak trains serving the Bay Area are:

CalTrain operates a regional rail service from San Jose to its San Francisco terminal at 4th & King. The CalTrain is good for getting between the Peninsula, Silicon Valley or South Bay and San Francisco. On weekdays there are two trains per hour for most of the day, more during commute hours; some trains are "Baby Bullet" services that cruise between San Francisco and San Jose in 57 minutes; on weekends and public holidays trains run hourly. The 4th/King terminal is served by Muni Metro (see 'Get around' below) giving connections to the rest of the city. Fares vary depending on how far you go. Tickets must be purchased before boarding the train from ticket vending machines at all stations or from ticket clerks at staffed stations. Tickets are checked on the trains and anyone found without a ticket is liable to a substantial fine. CalTrain can be contacted on +1-510-817-1717. http://www.caltrain.com/

Bay Area Rapid Transit or BART, provides a regional rail service connecting most of the East Bay and Contra Costa County with San Francisco and San Francisco Airport through the trans-bay tubes. BART operates five routes, of which four reach San Francisco; there are three or four trains per hour on each route. In the East Bay and outer parts of San Francisco BART runs mostly on elevated track; in downtown San Francisco it runs in a tunnel under Market Street that it shares with MuniMetro and several underground stations provide easy access to downtown areas and interchange with Muni Metro. BART also interchanges with CalTrain at Millbrae. Bicycles are allowed on BART during non-commute hours. Fares vary depending on how far you go. You should check the map at your departure station and buy a ticket for at least the correct amount. You will need to insert your ticket into barriers when entering and exiting the system. If there is still value left on the ticket when you exit, the ticket will be returned to you and you can re-use it, topping it up as necessary. BART can be contacted on +1-415-989-2278. http://www.bart.gov

Both CalTrain and BART have free programs with schedule information that can be run on a Palm OS device. They are available from their respective websites as a free download.

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By boat

San Francisco and Alcatraz from a Sausalito ferry
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San Francisco and Alcatraz from a Sausalito ferry

In many ways a boat is the ideal way to approach San Francisco. The city's spectacular site is best appreciated from the water, and from the deck of a boat the bay and its bridges and islands can be viewed as a whole. Cruise ships and private yachts are regular visitors to San Francisco, but the passenger ferries that regularly link other Bay Area cities to San Francisco are probably more practical for most visitors.

Ferries run to San Francisco from Larkspur, Sausalito and Tiburon in Marin County, from Vallejo in Solano County and from Alameda and Oakland in the East Bay. In San Francisco the ferries dock at one or both of Fishermans Wharf and the Ferry Building. For more information:

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By car

The two main arteries that connect San Francisco with Portland and other cities in the Pacific Northwest, and with Los Angeles and the rest of Southern California to the south, are US 101 and US Interstate 5. 101 meanders through the coastal hills of Central and Northern California, while 5 is a bullet-straight line up the San Joaquin Valley. Of the two, 5 is the faster route from almost any destination, while 101 is more scenic and enjoyable. Unfortunately, I-5 doesn't come into the Bay Area. Take CA-152 to 101 if coming from the south. Take I-80 from the North or East and come across the beautiful San Francisco Bay Bridge.

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Get around

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On foot

Walking can be an enticing option to get from one neighborhood to another, so long as you are aware of where you are and keep your street smarts -- Sf is a town of friendly neighborhoods but it is also "big city" - be aware of your surroundings. Streets which often go straight up and down hills may make driving difficult, but make for breathtaking views (as well as good exercise) for the pedestrian. There are many stairway walks scattered throughout the city, at blocks that are too steep for a roadway. You can find maps that include hiking trails, bikeways, and the grade pitch of all streets marked in varying colors by how steep each segment is, that can help you orient to city walks suitable to your ability and temperament.

Highlight walks might include:

  • Broadway, a quite doable walk of several miles beginning at the Bay, going through a risque entertainment area, past Chinatown, over Russian Hill, out to the mansions of Pacific Heights, and ending at the Lyon Steps alongside the Presidio, San Francisco's newest national park.
  • Ocean Beach (Richmond, Sunset),
  • Herb Caen Way (The Embarcadero) along the waterfront from the,
  • the Barbary Coast Trail (through Downtown, Chinatown, and North Beach), and
  • the Greenwich and Filbert Steps on the east side of Telegraph Hill, both strenuous and unforgettably beautiful, with cottages and a flock of wild parrots to enjoy along the way up to the Coit Tower.
Streetcar at foot of Market
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Streetcar at foot of Market
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By public transit

Cablecar at Powell & Market
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Cablecar at Powell & Market

San Francisco's Municipal Railway or Muni runs an extensive network of local transport, including:

  • Muni Metro is a modern light rail system. It serves the CalTrain terminus at 4th and Kings, runs north along the waterfront Embarcadero to the ferry building at the foot of Market Street, then goes underground under Market Street (in the same tunnel as BART) before surfacing and serving various locations in west and south San Francisco. You may board at any door provided you already have a ticket or pass. In the the underground section and at major surface stops you should purchase tickets from the ticket vending machine before boarding; if the stop does not have such a machine and you do not have a ticket, you must board through the front door and buy one from the driver.
  • Streetcar Line F uses historic streetcars, some from other US cities and painted in the colors of those cities that once operated cars of that type, and others from the Italian city of Milan. The line runs from Fishermans Wharf south along the waterfront Embarcadero to the ferry building at the foot of Market Street, then up Market Street on the surface to the Castro district. Board through the front door and buy tickets from the driver.
  • The world-famous Cable Cars run on three lines in the steep streets between Market Street and Fisherman's Wharf. These cars are a fun ride, especially if you get to stand on the running board, if a bit impractical for everyday use. Board through any door or just grab a pole on the running boards; tickets are are checked and sold by the conductor.
  • Buses serve the rest of town, with the steepest routes using electric trolleybuses. Board through the front door and buy tickets from the driver.

Two hours of travel on the Muni system except the Cable Cars costs $1.25; be sure to get and keep a transfer ticket when you pay for your first ride; you may be asked to show your transfer ticket (or pass) by fare inspectors at any time. Cable Cars are $3.00 per one-way, single-vehicle ride, no transfers issued or accepted.

An all day Muni Passport good on all Muni vehicles, including Cable Cars costs $9.00. Other passports and passes are available for longer periods. The passports come in the form of scratch cards; be sure to scratch off the appropriate dates before using. Muni also sells an excellent map of the San Francisco transport system, including services provided by other operators. Passports and maps can be bought from the information booths at San Francisco airport, the Cable Car ticket booth at Market and Powell, the Convention & Visitors Bureau also at Market and Powell and many other locations.

Muni can be contacted by calling +1-415-673-6864. http://www.sfmuni.com

BART has eight stations in San Francisco, making it a nice way to get between well-trafficked parts of the city, especially downtown and the Mission. For more information on BART, see the 'Get in' section above.

CalTrain has four stops within San Francisco. Other than the 4th and Kings terminal, these are at 22nd St., Paul Ave., and Tunnel Ave, none of which are particularly attractive for visitors. For more information on CalTrain, see the 'Get in' section above.

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By bike

Bicycles can be convenient in San Francisco, if you have strong legs. San Francisco is fairly small -- about 7 miles square -- and it's fairly quick to get from one end to the other. But much of the terrain is hilly and hard to pedal up. Downtown, SoMa, and the Sunset and Richmond districts are relatively flat. There are a number of bike paths and bike routes on city streets; the San Francisco Bike Coalition keeps a lot of information about them. http://www.sfbike.org/

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By taxi

Taxis in San Francisco are, for a large city, surprisingly inefficient and expensive. Except for taxi stations at or near downtown business hotels, or cruising just a few major arteries, taxis can be hard to find and hail -- and calling for a cab can mean a 30-45 minute wait, if the cab shows up at all.

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By car

Having a car can make it easy to get to parts of the city poorly served by Muni or other public transportation, as well as other parts of the Bay Area. However, perpetually-clogged traffic and a confusing system of one-way streets can make driving in downtown extremely frustrating. In addition, a significant percent of the city's revenue is made through parking tickets; parking laws are convoluted, enforcement is arbitrary, and devilishly stacked against the driver. Most of the city's internal freeways were damaged by the 1989 earthquake and consequently torn down, so driving in San Francisco is a surface-street affair.

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Finding your way around

Cross streets: As San Francisco streets are numbered (100 per block) from the beginning of the street, It is best when asking directions to ask for a cross street or neighborhood name. For instance, if you are at the intersection of Haight Street and Clayton Street, and you ask the driver of the 33 Stanyan bus "Does this bus go to Market Street?" it will get you a yes, but the bus won't get you downtown, it will get you south from that intersection to Market and 18th in the Castro district.

Numbered streets and avenues: San Francisco has both numbered streets, in the Mission, the Castro, Noe Valley, and SoMa, and numbered avenues in the Sunset and the Richmond. Mixing numbered streets and avenues when asking directions may leave you miles from your destination. This can be confusing, as San Franciscans will not say "Street" or "Avenue" unless it is required to avoid ambiguity. Thus, "I live on Fifth Avenue" but "I live near Fifth and Geary." Street signs generally don't have "Street" or "Avenue" either; they just say "GEARY" or "MASONIC".

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See

  • The Painted Ladies - historic terrace houses in heritage condition near Alamo Square
  • Lombard Street - The (nearly) twistiest street in America (between Hyde & Leavenworth)
  • Alcatraz - Decommissioned island prison in the bay
  • Angel Island (http://www.angelisland.org/) - Island in the bay that housed Asian immigration (exclusion) camp, becoming the "Ellis Island of the West". Ferry over and rent a bicycle or walk around this beautiful island that is now a park.
  • Golden Gate Park - The biggest park in the city, with windmills, bison, museums, and a carousel hidden among its charms.
  • Twin Peaks, Twin Peaks Boulevard (north of Portola Drive, just east of O'Shaughnessy). The small parking area at the northern tip of Twin Peaks Boulevard has the best view of San Francisco and the Bay Area that you can get within the city limits. Not much services, and the tour buses can get backed up here during the day, but it's a great place to really appreciate the City from above.
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Golden Gate Bridge

Golden Gate Bridge from Marin County with San Francisco in background
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Golden Gate Bridge from Marin County with San Francisco in background

Highway 101 N (from Park-Presidio or Lombard Street entrance), +1 415-921-5858 (bridgecomments@goldengate.org). Open 24 hours, occasionally closed Sunday morning for events. $5 (toll driving south into San Francisco; free on foot or bike) http://www.goldengatebridge.org/

The Golden Gate Bridge is one of the most famous bridges in the United States, and has been called one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. The bridge spans the Golden Gate, a strait between San Francisco and Marin County to the north, and is one of the major road routes into and out of the city.

Vehicular traffic in both directions share a single deck; orange pylons are used to allot lanes to one direction or the other depending on traffic conditions. Observation areas and parking lots are provided on both the north and south sides of the bridge; the best way to enjoy the bridge is to park and walk across, not least because you don't have to pay a toll. Note that winds are high and it can be cold and foggy; dress appropriately. Bikes can also be difficult to navigate in the high winds and narrow pathway.

The masterwork of architect Joseph B. Strauss, whose statue graces the southern observation deck, the bridge took seven years to build, and was completed on May 27, 1937. Not actually golden in color -- a common misconception -- the bridge is painted a deep red-orange. Erroneous legend has it that the bridge is continuously painted, with crews starting at one end and, on getting to the other end, turning around and starting over again. In fact, the bridge is only painted once every few years, with some touchup done continuously.

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Do

  • Take one of the many San Francisco harbor tours and admire the views from the bay or visit historic Tiburon.
  • Ride a San Francisco Cable Car, or electric tram along the Embarcadero
  • Critical Mass. On the last Friday of each month, bicyclists gather at the north end of Market Street on the Embarcadero and go together to some destination. If you are driving in SF on a Critical Mass day, you will want to listen for radio traffic reports for streets that are closed or badly congested by the bikes. Tempers can and do flare.
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Eat

San Francisco is a sensual, epicurean city with a vast array of restaurants. If money is no object, you can have an unparalleled dining experience at Masa or Boulevard. But less budget-busting restaurants exist for every type of cuisine. Sushi is a local obsession, and though you can find a sushi bar on almost every street corner, the Richmond district has more than its fair share of excellent sushi chefs. San Francisco also has the largest Chinatown in North America, with many exceptional restaurants serving dim sum and other Chinese delicacies; this localized Chinese cuisine has its feet in Hong Kong and America, and is different from what many visitors are accustomed to. Fisherman's Wharf serves fresh seafood, especially clam chowder and crabs cooked to order. North Beach is the place to go for Italian food, and the Mission for Mexican restaurants (and South American cuisine of all sorts).

You should also visit Ghirardelli Square (http://www.ghirardellisq.com/) to pick up some of their world-famous chocolate. Just a visit to the shop gets you a free piece!

  • Rainbow Grocery, 1745 Folsom (near 16th and Mission BART station). A wide variety of organic groceries, herbs and spices at low prices. http://www.rainbowgrocery.coop/
  • All You Knead (http://cuisinenet.com/info/?v=237&/san_francisco/rest/4832.shtml), 1466 Haight St (between Masonic & Ashbury). Good casual place for American food; serves a big breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Vegetarian friendly.
  • First Crush (http://www.firstcrush.com/), Cyril Magnin at Ellis. Trendy wine-themed restaurant for splurging on a date. Good filet mignon, but for $26.
  • Buena Vista Cafe, at the north end of the Cable Car line. Famous for its Irish coffee.
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Respect

Smokers beware: as in the rest of California, smoking is illegal in bars, restaurants, and other public places. Bay Area people can be particularly vocal about your personal habits. Be aware of nonsmoking areas, and try to be courteous about smoking in other places. They will probably not bother you about standing and smoking outside a restaurant or bar. However, smoking is not dead in San Francisco —there are a small number of bars that choose to defy the law, and cater to the short-of-breath. The Zeitgeist (a motorcycle-themed dive bar) on Valencia in the Mission District is one of the better known.

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Get out

For laid-back, involved-with-your-fellow-travelers kind of travel (cooking is shared, the sleeper busload camps ensemble), check out the Green Tortoise (http://www.greentortoise.com/). GT runs buses up to Seattle and down to Baja California; to Black Rock City, Yosemite National Park, a National Parks loop including the Tetons, Yellowstone and more, and a coast-to-coast run to New York.

Bikes can be rented from around the northern waterfront (Pier 41/Fisherman's Wharf/Aquarium Park area) or near Golden Gate Park for trips to Marin County via the Golden Gate Bridge. Golden Gate Transit also serves the North Bay from San Francisco, and has bike racks on most buses.

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External links


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