Philadelphia
From Imakoopedia
Located in Pennsylvania, Philadelphia is the sixth largest city in the United States of America.
Understand
Philadelphia can be considered the birthplace of the United States. The Declaration of Independence was signed here, and the Constitution was written here as well. Philadelphia also served as the capital of the United States until 1800. Today Philadelphia is home to over 1.5 million people, many of whom call it by its nickname "Philly". Like many cities, Philadelphia is home to many ethnic groups many of whom have started businesses in various parts of the city.
The main areas of the city of interest to visitors are Center City, West Philadelphia (particularly University City), and the Northwest. Center City (http://centercityphila.org/home/default.aspx) is the main downtown area, and is central to many public transportation systems. To a first time visitor, Center City would be the ideal choice to stay in and visit, with by far the most lodging options and major sights. West Philadelphia is home to several universities, including the University of Pennsylvania and Drexel University. The Northwest includes the historic neighborhoods of Chestnut Hill and Germantown, and a popular shopping and restaurant district in Manayunk. as well as a large wooded park running for miles in the Wissahickon Valley.
Many people believe that Philadelphia is an ideal city to live in because of its proximity to other big cities, like New York and Washington D.C. However, many Philadelphians themselves live in Philadelphia because they like the city itself.
Philadelphians are famous for loving their pretzels and cheesesteaks. Food trucks litter the sidewalks of Center City and West Philly, many of them specializing in Philly cheesesteaks and/or pretzels but others offering a surprising array of meals.
The city is home to many "Historic Districts" which are both a boon and a bane to the residents' lives. These historic districts allow people to see homes and even neighbourhoods showcased in their ancient grandeur. One such example would be Elfreth's Alley (http://elfrethsalley.org/) which is the oldest neighbourhood that has been continuously occupied by residents since the birth of the nation. One of the larger historic districts in the city covers nearly the entire neighborhood of Chestnut Hill, in the far northwestern corner of the city.
Neighborhoods
Like every big city, Philadelphia has many neighborhoods, each of which has its own identity.
Chinatown
Chinatown extends from approximately 8th Street to Broad Street east-west, and Race Street to Market Street north-south. Despite the name, Philadelphia's Chinatown has a variety of Asian ethnicities and has recently become one of the most popular neighborhoods for young people. The streets of Chinatown are dominated by restaurants (mostly Chinese and Vietnamese), at least 5 per block.
Fishtown
Frankford
Fitler Square
The Fitler Square neighborhood has some good restaurants and pretty tree-lined streets. The charming 2400 block of Panama, supposedly, has been re-created on a Hollywood lot for the show "Cold Case." Fitler Square itself doesn't show up on MapQuest, but it's at 23rd and Pine. The Saturday morning farmers' market there runs spring-fall.
Fox Chase
Northern Liberties
The Northern Liberties neighborhood extends approximately from 2nd street to 8th street east-west, and from Spring Garden Street to Brown Street north-sound. Until about the 1960's, Northern Liberties was home to Philadelphia's breweries. Ortleib's, Schmidt's, and Ballantine. (These beers are tougher to find these days, but live on at Citizens Bank Park's (home of the Philadelphia Phillies baseball team) Brewerytown stand.) It fell into a disrepair once the breweries declined. Today, however, it is quickly becoming the "New Manayunk" - an immensely popular neighborhood with trendy shops and bars. Northern Liberties is an excellent place to spend an evening out, with plentiful free parking, and a large number of unique bars and restaurants well within walking distance.
Northeast Philadelphia
Old City
Here is the neighbourhood association webpage (http://www.oldcity.org/). One thing to definitely check out is the First Friday (http://www.gophila.com/culturefiles/Artmuseums/firstfriday/) event which is held on every first Friday of the month and showcases local artists' works.
Art Museum Area
As the name suggests, this is the area around the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The southern end of Fairmount Park starts here. The area is mostly residential, but there are a few very nice restaurants on Fairmount Ave.
Powelton Village
Powelton Village is a small, diverse community in the University City section of Philadelphia. It remains visually identifiable, an oasis of tree-lined streets, porch-fronted suburban houses interspersed with a few mansions and their commercial support buildings dating from the second half of the nineteenth century.
Rittenhouse Square
Rittenhouse Square is as close to a central park as one can get in Philadelphia. Only 4 blocks west of Broad St and the main business areas, it is an oasis in the heart of the city. It is surrounded by tall buildings, and there are many nice restaurants in the area. The Walnut St shopping row starts here (at 18th St) and extends eastward to Broad St. During the summer there will often be concerts in the park, but they are not that frequent, so check the schedules (usually listed in the park itself).
South Philly
The Italian Market, heading south from 9th and Christian, is always worth a visit. Like an old European market, the sidewalks are lined with stands selling cheap produce, across from ancient butcher shops, spice shops and Italian and Mexican delis. Get a roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe.
University City
Washington Square
Washington Square, the area, is composed of several distinct neighborhoods and is convenient to America's most historic square mile. Washington Square West is a lively neighborhood, while east of the park is a bit more sedate. Antique Row, Pine Street between about 13th and 9th Streets, is full of interesting shops, not all of them antiques-oriented. Washington Square itself is worth a visit to see the tomb of the unknown Revolutionary War soldier. This neighborhood is a good place to see Philadelphia's native style of house, the "trinity" -- two, three, or four floors, one room per floor, connected by spiral stairs. The small streets above Pine, such as Quince Street, are lined with trinities.
West Philly
Get in
By plane
From Philadelphia International Airport (http://www.phl.org/index.html) there are many ways to get to your destination. Assuming one's destination is center city, Septa's R1 train (http://www.septa.org/schedule.cgi?route=r1&day=1&return=on) is the fastest and ideal choice. You can buy a ticket to Center City for $5.50, or $7 for a ticket that will let you transfer to any other SEPTA commuter rail destination. Other options available are taxis (there is a $20.00 flat rate to center city) and airport shuttles (more information available by calling 215-937-6958)
By train
The city is a major stop along Amtrak's (http://www.amtrak.com/) Northeast Corridor line, with frequent trains (at least once an hour during the day) from New York and Washington. There are also two Amtrak trains a day from Pittsburgh and other points west. In addition, New Jersey Transit runs several trains per day from Atlantic City. It's also possible to get here from New York via commuter rail as well, changing trains at Trenton. While this is about half the price of Amtrak from New York, it's much slower.
All of these trains arrive at 30th Street Station (http://www.30thstreetstation.com/), which is is slightly west of center city and very accessible by SEPTA's Elevated subway (http://www.septa.org/schedule.cgi?route=MFL&day=1&return=on) (Market/Frankford line) and its trolley trains which stop at the subway stop at 30th Street Station. Taxis are also always available outside the station.
Get around
Walking
As American downtowns go, Philadelphia's Center City is very easy and pleasant to explore on foot. The downtown was laid out long before the automobile, mostly in a recitilinear grid, with most of its streets narrow enough to slow down automobile traffic. It also has lots of homes (as well as old business buildings that have been turned into apartments and residences) so there are lots of people on the streets, and amenities for them, in much of Center City. You'll also find little parks and historic sites tucked in, often unexpectedly, on various blocks, and varied building architecture spanning over 350 years.
Look for colored "Walk Philadelphia" signs posted on many street corners in Center City and University City. These will show maps of the area you're walking through, and also point towards local places of interest.
Some old enamel street maps from the Bicentennial are still lurking around. They point you to a visitor center (at Love Park) that does not exist anymore!
Bicycling
Here is a list (http://www.phillybikeclub.org/bikerental.html) of places you can rent bicycles from. The city also has some cycling maps showing recommended cycling routes, available online (http://www.phila.gov/streets/bike_route_maps.html) or from many bike shops.
Driving
In much of Center City, having a car can be more of a burden than a benefit. There are lots of narrow, traffic-choked one-way streets and turning restrictions. Parking in lots or garages can be very expensive (check the rate boards before entering to avoid nasty surprises), and legal on-street parking can be extremely difficult to find in popular areas. Consider walking (see above), public transit, or taxis instead. Taxis are cheap and can be hailed almost everywhere in Center City.
A car can be very useful, though, for visiting areas outside Center City and University City, where public transit isn't as comprehensive. Rental cars are available at the airport, at the 30th Street train station, and in some neighborhood locations.
If you'll be visiting Philly for a long time, you may want to consider Philly Car Share (http://www.phillycarshare.org/) as an alternative to renting or buying a car. It can be cheaper for long term stays, and they even take care of gas and parking for you.
Public transit
SEPTA (http://www.septa.com/) runs Philadelphia's transportation system. They include the elevated subway/train (the El and the Broad Street Line), trolleys (called the green line), buses and the regional railway system. As of this writing (January, 2004), cash fare for buses, trolleys, and subways is $2, but you can also pay the fare with a token. Tokens can be bought in quantities of 2 or more for $1.30 each in many subway stations and other SEPTA sales locations (http://www.septa.org/sales/index.html).
Should you wish to transfer (subway to bus, bus to trolley) a transfer costs $.60. However transferring within the subway system (trolley to trolley, El to Broad Street line) is free at 30th Street, 15th Street, and City Hall stations.
If you plan on staying in Philadelphia for a week and using SEPTA a lot, purchasing a weekly pass is highly recommended. You can buy tokens and/or passes at the locations seen here (http://www.septa.org/sales/index.html)
See
Independence National Historical Park
This area, covering several blocks of Center City Philadelphia, includes some of the Philadelphia's most famous historic sites, and is run by the US National Park Service. (See their information site. (http://www.nps.gov/inde/)) You can tour Independence Hall, a World Heritage Site where the Declaration of Independence was signed and the US Constitution drafted; see the Liberty Bell, at various times a symbol both for the freedom of the nation and for freedom from slavery; and visit the National Constitution Center (http://www.constitutioncenter.org/), a new interactive museum on the Constitution. The park also includes more than a dozen other historical buildings. You definitely want to start at the Independence Visitor Center (http://www.independencevisitorcenter.com/), where you can get the ticket you need to get into Independence Hall, as well as information and tickets for other area sites. Costumed interpreters hang out at the Visitor Center and will talk to any and all kids.
Presidential Places
- Deshler-Morris House (http://www.nps.gov/inde/morris.htm)
Art
You can see lots of art in Philly without ever entering a building. Philadelphia has the most public art of any city in the United States. There are hundreds of murals scattered through the city (see the Mural Arts Program (http://www.muralarts.org/) website for a preview and tour; another site (http://pobox.upenn.edu/~davidtoc/murals/westphilly.html) shows some of the murals in West Philly). Other public art of note includes the many glass mosaics; head down South Street east of Broad for a sampling. Last but not least, there are famous scultures and statues such as The Kiss (known to locals as "The Clothespin") across the street from City Hall at Broad and Market Streets, and The Love Statue at Love Park on JFK Boulevard. And there are dozens of art museums and galleries as well, large and small. Here are a few that are especially notable:
- Philadelphia Museum of Art. Regular special exhibitions, and an impressive permanent collection that's especially strong in Asian and medieval art, impressionist paintings, and furniture. The museum sits on a hill overlooking the Schuylkill River at the end of The Ben Franklin Parkway, which was modeled after the Champs Elysees in Paris. There's an impressive view back toward City Hall from the top of the "Rocky steps." http://www.philamuseum.org/
- Rodin Museum. Displays the largest collection of Rodin's work outside of Paris. http://www.rodinmuseum.org/
- Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts. A school that has had an impressive roster of artist alumni in the past 200 years, including some of the best-known names in American art. Its museum shows works from past and present PAFA students and faculty, as well as regular special exhibits. http://www.pafa.org/
- Barnes Foundation. A few miles outside Center City, a few hundred people a week get to see a one-of-a-kind collection of art ranging from the primitive to the post-Impressionist, arranged together in a mansion in the middle of a 12-acre arboretum. Many works here, although by famous artists, have almost never been exhibited elsewhere. The Foundation is only open to the public 3 days a week, and advance reservations are required. Depending on the time of year, reservations can fill up weeks or months in advance. http://www.barnesfoundation.org/
Other museums
- Academy of Natural Sciences. Not just a natural history museum, this institution also has an active research arm and library. Highlights of the meseum include a 2-story dinosaur exhibit, a butterfly walk-through area, and a children's nature center with live animals. Special exhibits include an exhibit on chocolate in the summer of 2004, and the Lewis and Clark National Bicentennial Exhibition starting in November 2004. http://www.acnatsci.org/
- Atwater Kent Museum of Philadelphia History. http://www.philadelphiahistory.org/
- Independence Seaport Museum. http://seaport.philly.com/
- The Franklin Institute Science Museum. http://www.fi.edu/
- The Mutter Museum. Originally open only to medical students, this collection of medial oddities is quickly becoming one of the city's most popular attractions. http://www.collphyphil.org/muttpg1.shtml
- The National Museum of American Jewish History. http://www.nmajh.org/
- Rare Book Department of the Philadelphia Free Library. If you're into rare books at all, take the free tour, offered at 11 a.m. Mon-Fri, of the Philadelphia Free Library's amazing rare book collection. Besides the Gutenberg Bible, highlights include medieval manuscripts, children's book illustrations, and the stuffed body of Dicken's pet raven Grip, the raven who inspired "The Raven."
- Rosenbach Museum and Library. http://www.rosenbach.org/
- University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology. Located on South Street between 32nd and 33rd Streets, this museum houses an impressive collection of Egyptian and Greco-Roman artifacts. http://www.museum.upenn.edu/
Theater and Music
- Kimmel Center. showcases a variety of Performing Arts. http://www.kimmelcenter.org/
- The Trocadero. http://www.thetroc.com/
- Theatre of the Living Arts (The TLA). Located between on South Street between 3rd and 4th Streets.
Parks
- Fairmount Park. Technically, Fairmount Park covers all of the city parks in Philadelphia, but the name also refers more specifically to the large park on both sides of the Schuykill River northwest of Center City. A city website for the entire system is at http://www.phila.gov/fairpark/
- Clark Park. http://www.clarkpark.org/
- Love Park (formally, JFK Plaza) is a square near City Hall, known for its Robert Indiana "LOVE" sculpture, and for attracting skateboarders from around the world (despite a ban on skating in the park). Since 2002, this ban has been rigorously enforced (and the park renovated to discourage skateboarders). Free wireless access is now available in the park.
- Rittenhouse Park.
- Franklin D. Roosevelt Park. Features a good skate park (http://www.sas.upenn.edu/~blathrop/fdrsplash.html).
Presidential Places
- Washington Crossing Historic Park PA 32 (Washington Crossing) 215-493-4076. This 500-acre park is divided into two sections: the Thompson's Mill section and the Washington Crossing section. The latter section is the site from which George Washington and the Continental Army crossed the Delaware River on December 25, 1776. (A bridge connects this section with New Jersey's Washington Crossing State Park; see Trenton.) The Washington Crossing section features McConkey Ferry Inn, where Washington is believed to have prior to the crossing; the Taylor House, home of influential businessman Mahlon Taylor; and the Memorial Building, which has a copy of Emanuel Leutze's painting Washington Crossing the Delaware. Each year, the crossing is reenacted on Christmas Day; call for details. The Thompson's Mill section features Bowman's Hill Tower, a 110-foot tower with a 14-mile view of the Delaware Valley; the Thompson-Neely House, the site of many confrences before the Battle of Trenton; and the Memorial Flagstaff, which marks the graves of Continental Army troops who were the first of our the United States' unknown soliders.
Battlefields
Presidential Places
- Brandywine Battlefield Box 202 (Chadds Ford) 610-459-3342. The Battle of Brandywine, fought September 11, 1777, was one of the bloodiest in the region. The park includes George Washington's rebuilt headquarters and Marquis de Lafayette's headquarters.
Drink
Bars
- Bob and Barbera's, 15th and South Street.
- North Star Bar. Located at 27th and Poplar Streets, this bar is one of the premiere venues for live music. http://www.northstarbar.com/
- Smokey Joe's, 210 South 40th Street, 222-0770. An institution for University of Pennsylvania students and alumni. Keep an eye out for the Smokes' Dirty 'Ol man. http://www.smokeyjoesbar.com/
- The Khyber. http://www.thekhyber.com/
- The Standard Tap. Located in Northern Liberties, this classy but affordable two-story bar serves beer only from the tap. http://www.standardtap.com/
- Monk's. An incredible selection of Belgian beers: they have a book that you leaf through just to find one, and they have a rotating set of 5 on tap. The sandwiches and mussels baskets are great, and the spanish fries are blindingly hot. http://monkscafe.com/
Coffee Shops
- Crimson Moon corner of 20th and Sansom Streets. http://www.crimsonmooncafe.com/
- Green Line Cafe, 43rd and Baltimore Avenue, West Philadelphia (trolley 34). http://www.greenlinecafe.com/
- Last Drop, 13th and Pine Street, Center City.
- Intermezzo on 32nd and Walnut. Offers great coffee, and is a free wireless internet hotspot.
- La Colombe 19th (just off Walnut, close to Rittenhouse Square). Famous for its house-roasted coffees, served at fine cafes nationwide.
Eat
- Abbraccio, 802 S. 47th Street (on trolley 34), 727-8247. M-F noon-1:30PM, 5PM-9PM, Sa 5PM-9PM, Su 4PM-9PM. Italian food. $25-30 (entrees $10-15). http://www.abbracciorestaurant.com/
- Alma de Cuba, 1623 Walnut St, 988-1799. M-Th 5PM-11PM, F-Sa 5PM-midnight, Su 5PM-10PM. $50 (entrees $25; happy hour M-F 5PM-7PM). http://www.almadecubarestaurant.com/
- Azteca.
- Buddakan, 325 Chestnut Street (at 4th), 574-9440 (fax: 574-8994, email: starr.info@starr-restaurant.com). M-Th 11:30AM-2PM, 5PM-11PM. F 11:30AM-2PM, 5PM-midnight, Sa 5PM-midnight, Su 5PM-11PM. $50 (entrees at $25). http://www.buddakan.com/
- "Capogiro", 13th and Walnut. Wonderful gelato that reflects seasonal and local ingredients. Sample flavors: La Colombe cappucino, pear and Jack Daniels, Campari and grapefruit
- Geno's Steaks, 9th & Passyunk in South Philadelphia. Along with Pat's, home of one of the world's most famous cheesesteaks. $9 for a cheesesteak, fries, and a soda.
- Lemongrass.
- Los Locas.
- Mama Palma's, NE corner of 23rd and Spruce, 735-7357. M 4pm-10pm; Tue-Thu 11am-10pm; F-Sat 11am-11pm; Sun 2pm-10pm. A cozy neighborhood gourmet pizzeria. This casual restaurant serves delicious pizza concoctions from the wood-fired brick oven.
- Matyson.
- Morimoto, 723 Chestnut Street, 413-9070. http://www.morimotorestaurant.com/
- Pat's King of Steaks, where 9th Street crosses Wharton & Passyunk Ave. Est. 1930, owner claims to have invented the cheesesteak.
- Rx.
- Tandoori.
- White Dog Cafe, 3420 Sansom St., 386-9224. M-Th 5:30PM-10PM F-Sa 5:30PM-11PM, Su 5PM-10PM. An elegant restaurant that is bound to the local community. They use products from local farmers, and serve beers from local breweries. The food is mostly American/Continental style. $15-25. http://whitedog.com/
- Zocolo.
Sleep
Hotels
Hostels
- Bank Street Hostel, 32 South Bank Street (Old City), 922-0222 (fax: 922-4082, email: thebankstreethostel@hotmail.com). Very convenient to public transportation, restaurants and other night spots. Associated with American Youth Hostel Association. $21/night ($18 AYHO members; $2 bed sheet charge). http://www.bankstreethostel.com/
Bed and Breakfasts
- Rittenhouse Bed and Breakfast, 1715 Rittenhouse Square (Center City), 877-791-6500 (fax: 215-546-8787). Continental breakfast included. $209/night (double occupancy; seasonal specials). http://www.rittenhousebb.com/
