Montreal

From Imakoopedia

Montreal (French: Montréal) is the cultural capital of Quebec and the gateway to that province. Once the largest city in Canada, recent years have seen it cede that place to Toronto. It remains a city rich in culture and history, and has a well-deserved reputation as one of the liveliest cities in North America.

Montreal is the second largest French-speaking city in the world, after Paris.

Table of contents

1 Understand 2 Get In 2.1 By plane 2.2 By car 2.3 By train 2.4 By bus 3 Get around 3.1 By car 3.2 By Bike 3.3 Public transit 4 See 5 Do 5.1 Bike 5.2 Parks 5.3 Festivals 5.4 Sports to watch 6 Learn 7 Work 8 Buy 9 Eat 10 Drink 10.1 Bars 10.2 Dance Clubs 11 Gay and lesbian 12 Sleep 12.1 Budget 12.2 Mid-range 12.3 Splurge 13 Get out 14 External links

Understand

Situated on an island in the St. Lawrence River just at its highest navigable point, Montreal has been a strategic location since before the arrival of Europeans in Canada. A Native American village called Hochelaga was on the site of present-day Montreal when explorer Jacques Cartier first visited in 1535. A hundred years later, in 1642, the tiny town of Ville-Marie was founded as a Jesuit mission, but soon became a center of the fur trade. After its capture by the English in 1762, Montreal remained the most important city in francophone Canada, and was briefly capital of the province in the 1840s.

Prohibition on sales of alcohol in the United States during the 1920s and 30s made Montreal a mecca for cross-border fun seekers from nearby New England and New York. The city built up a seedy yet playful industry in alcohol, burlesque, and other vices. In the 1960s, an urban renewal drive centered around Expo 67, the World's Fair in Montreal, brought a subway system and a number of attractive urban parks. The 1976 Olympics left a strikingly idiosyncratic stadium and many other urban improvements.

The opening of the Saint Lawrence Seaway in 1959, though much lauded as an economic boon, spelled the beginning of the end for Montreal's economic dominance in Canada. Once the transition point between western railroads and eastern sea carriers, Montreal watched helplessly as this business moved farther west, up the now navigable Seaway, to ports in Ontario and on Lake Superior. The Quebec sovereignty movement, which began to pick up steam in the 1960s, further chilled the atmosphere for Canada-wide businesses, many of which moved their headquarters to Toronto.

After an economic depression in the 1980s and 1990s -- due to automotive and aerospace plant closures in the surrounding area -- Montreal today has become more secure in its place in North America and the world. It remains a center of culture, arts, computer technology, the biotech industry and media for all of Canada and for the French-speaking world.

Get In

By plane

Montreal's Pierre-Elliott-Trudeau Airport (http://yul.aero/) (airport code: YUL), formerly Dorval Airport, is about half an hour west of the city center on highway 20. Taxi fare to the city is a fixed price of $31. The Aérobus is a shuttle running from Dorval to a station at 777 de la Gauchetière West about once every half hour from 7AM to 1AM. Tickets are $12. Alternatively, public bus nr. 204 leave every half hour towards Gare Dorval, where bus nr. 211/221 can be caught to the metro (subway). This costs only $2.50 but exact change must be provided.

Montreal has a second airport, Mirabel, about an hour north of the city center, mostly serviced by charter plane companies. Cab rides cost $75 to get to the city center, but the Aérobus service runs $22. The bus is pretty infrequent, with only a handful of departures per day.

By car

From Toronto, take Highway 401 east for about 6 hours until it becomes autoroute 20 just outside of Montreal. Highway 20 takes about an hour to get to downtown.

From Ottawa, it's about 2 hours east along Highway 40 to Montreal. From Quebec City, it's about 3-4 hours west on either Highway 40 or 20.

From New York City, take Interstate Highway 81 through Albany and the eastern half of New York state, for about 6-7 hours to get to Montreal. After crossing the border near Plattsburg, it becomes Highway 15, which leads directly into downtown Montreal over the Pont Champlain -- the most beautiful approach to the city.

From Boston, take Interstate Highway 93 to Highway 89 in Concord, New Hampshire, through Vermont to the border crossing near Burlington, where it turns into Highway 133 which intersects Highway 10, which taken west leads directly into downtown Montreal. The whole trip takes about 6-7 hours.

By train

Montreal Central Station is at 895, rue De La Gauchetière Ouest, one block west of rue University.

Via Rail Canada (http://www.viarail.ca/) operates trains from several Canadian cities into Montreal. From Toronto, trains leave everyday for the five-hour trip to Montreal about every 2 hours from 7AM to midnight, with adult economy round-trip fare running about $160. The train is equipped with WiFi service for those computer nuts wanting to stay in touch. There's also a regular train from Quebec City, leaving four times a day, taking about three hours.

Amtrak's Adirondack service from New York's Penn Station takes about 10 hours, leaving at 9:45AM and arriving after 7PM. The train passes through much of upstate New York and hugs Lake Champlain for a large part of the trip.

By bus

• Greyhound Canada (http://www.greyhound.ca/) travels to nearly 1,100 towns and cities in Canada, via 400 coaches during peak travel periods. Buses leave from Station Centrale at 505 boulevard De Maisonneuve Est, (metro Berri-UQÀM (http://stm.info/English/metro/a-m11.htm)). Call 514-842-2281 for schedules and prices.
• Coach Canada (http://www.coachcanada.com/) is another big bus service that runs in partnership with Trentway Wagar Lines.

Get around

Montreal is divided east-west by boulevard Saint-Laurent. Numbered addresses start there and increase in either direction; most addresses are given as "rue Saint-Quelqu'un Ouest" (west) or "rue Saint-Quelqu'un Est" (east). Many streets are named after obscure Catholic saints.

By car

Driving (SAAQ (http://www.saaq.gouv.qc.ca/)) in Montreal can be a bit of a hassle. The severe winters take their toll on the roadways, which are either heavily potholed or subject to perpetual construction. Downtown traffic is dense, and street parking is rare. Also, there is no right turn on red lights on the island of Montreal.

By Bike

Cycling and in-line skating ('rollerblading') are very popular once the cold winter weather is over. The city is criss-crossed by quite well-maintained cycle paths, although outside of these paths, the potholes and generally rather manic driving style do not encourage the self-powered visitor. Skate and bike hire shops are common, particularly in the Old Port and the Plateau. (See Do for specific bike paths)

Public transit

The public transit system, run by the STM (http://www.stm.info/), is in general safe, efficient, and pleasant to use. Tickets valid for unlimited use of the metro and buses during one and a half hour are $2.50, and available for about 25% discount in strips (lisières) of six. Tourist passes offer unlimited travel on the bus and metro for periods of one day or three days. They are available from most downtown metro stations during the summer, but only at Berri-UQAM and Bonaventure stations on the off-season. Transit passes are also available for periods of a week (CAM hebdo) or a month (CAM mensuelle).

The STM website offers a trip-planner service called Tous azimuts (http://stm.info/English/azimuts/a-index.htm).

For instructions on how to use the metro, see Metro FAQ at metrodemontreal.com (http://www.metrodemontreal.com/faq/basics.html#fares).

For a map of the metro, see Montreal Metro at Wikipedia (http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Montreal_Metro).

See

• Old Montreal and the Old Port (Vieux-Montréal, Vieux-Port): South of rue Saint-Antoine between rue McGill and rue Berri (metro Champ-de-Mars or Place-d'Armes)
• St. Joseph's Oratory (Oratoire Saint-Joseph): 3800, chemin Queen Mary (metro Côte-des-Neiges). The largest church in Canada.
• Basilique Notre-Dame: 116, rue Notre-Dame ouest (metro Place-d'Armes).
• Mary Queen of the World Cathedral (Cathédrale Marie-Reine-du-Monde): 1065, rue de la Cathédrale (metro Bonaventure). a 1/4 scale copy of St. Peter's in Rome.
• Musée des Beaux-Arts: 1380, rue Sherbrooke Ouest (metro Guy-Concordia).
• Biodôme: 4777, avenue Pierre-De Coubertin (metro Viau).
• Jardin Botanique: 4101, rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Pie-IX).
• Olympic Stadium: 4141, avenue Pierre de Coubertin (metro Pie-IX), 877-997-0919. 9AM-5PM every day. Created for the 1976 Montreal Olympics, this amazing building is the world's largest leaning structure. The Montreal Expos play in the stadium at various times. You can also take a cable car to the top of the Montreal Tower for an incredible view of the city. http://www.rio.gouv.qc.ca/
• Parc Jean Drapeau: metro Jean-Drapeau. The site of the 1967 World's Fair.
• Habitat 67, 2600, avenue Pierre-Dupuy (take Chemin du Moulins exit from Hwy 10 south), 514-866-5971. This visually striking residential building was created by architect Moshe Safdie for Expo 67. The results were an amazingly modern dwelling that challenged the way architects created urban homes. Compared alternately to a beehive, a Taos pueblo, and a crystalline growth, the complexes 154 units were composed of prefabricated concrete cubes assembled on site. The apartments here are highly prized and a number of prominent Montrealers make Habitat 67 their home. http://cac.mcgill.ca/safdie/habitat/
• Montreal Insectarium, 4581, rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Pie-IX or Viau), (514) 872-1400. 9 AM to 5 PM every day usually. http://www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/insectarium/insect.htm
• Montreal Planetarium, 1000 rue St-Jacques Ouest, between Peel and de la Cathédrale (metro Bonaventure), (514) 872-4530. Rates and schedule may vary. See the website for information on rates and shows: http://www.planetarium.montreal.qc.ca/Planetarium/hor_droits_a.html .

Do

• Cross-country skiing During the winter, many parks offers the possibility to do cross-country skiing with traced paths.
  • Parc regional de l'Ile-de-la-Visitation (ski rent available)
  • Parc du Mont-Royal (ski rent available and usually the best ski conditions)
  • Parc Maisonneuve and Jardin Botanique (no ski rent).
  • Year-round ice-skating, 1000, rue De La Gauchetière (metro Bonaventue),
• Canoeing and kayaking,
• Casino de Montréal: 1, avenue du Casino (metro Jean-Drapeau).
• La Ronde (Six Flags): 22, chemin Macdonald (metro Jean-Drapeau). $33.99, $25.99 without rides, 11- pay $20.99; Season pass individual $85 or family $199. Discounts are readily available -- for instance, a Coca Cola tin is worth a $5 discount on any rides ticket. http://www.laronde.com/

Bike

An interactive map of the cycle path network is available at the Vélo Québec (Bike Quebec) website (http://www.velo.qc.ca/fr/reseaux_cyclables/index-MTL.lasso). Particularly pleasant places to cycle and skate include:

• Parc Maisonneuve A large park with smooth paths.
• Parc Jean-Drapeau Particularly the Île Notre-Dame on the Formula One race track: a fantastic view across the water to downtown Montreal.
• Paths along the Lachine Canal, west of the Old Port.
• Paths along the Riviere-des-Prairies. You can do the Montreal Island from west to east along the river on the north of Montreal. Many sites have an incredible sight. A stop to the Perry Island is a must.

Parks

• Carré Saint-Louis, corner of avenue Saint-Denis and rue Prince-Arthur, slight north of rue Sherbrooke (metro Sherbrooke).
• Parc Jean Drapeau. The former Expo 67 fairgrounds, Parc Jean Drapeau is spread across two islands in the Saint Lawrence River. (metro Parc Jean Drapeau)
• Parc Lafontaine, from avenue Papineau to avenue du Parc Lafontaine and from rue Rachel to rue Sherbrooke. Ice skating on the lake in the winter, baseball, boules, and outdoor theater in the summer. (metro Sherbrooke)
• Parc Maisonneuve and Jardin botanique, from rue Sherbrooke to boulevard Rosemont and from boulevard Pie-IX to avenue Viau (metro Pie-IX or Viau).
• Parc du Mont-Royal, North of avenue des Pins between avenue du Parc and chemin de la Côte-des-Neiges, 514-843-8240 (info@lemontroyal.qc.ca). This beautiful urban park tops the "mountain" (at 232 meters, it's more like a hill) that overlooks all of Montreal and lends the city its name. Designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, creator of Central Park in New York, the park is elegant and accessible, and has hundreds of nooks and crannies for exploring. A broad and gradual 5-mile bike and pedestrian path begins at the corner of avenue Mont-Royal and avenue du Parc, wending its way around the mountain and culminating at the Belvédère, with incredible views of the city in all directions. Every Sunday, during the summer, thousands of people get together to enjoy the big tam-tam jam : there's your piece of multi-cultural Montreal!http://www.lemontroyal.qc.ca/
• Parc Jeanne-Mance, corner of avenue du Parc and avenue des Pins, across from Parc du Mont-Royal
• Parc de l'Ile-de-la-Visitation, rue d'Iberville and boulevard Gouin, (514) 280-6733 (metro Henri-Bourassa, Bus 69 east). This regional park is along the Riviere-des-Prairies. Quiet and enjoyable place to bring a lunch and relax for an afternoon. Good starting point for a cycling tour along the river.

Festivals

• Francofolies International festival dedicated to French music from all around the world. (end of July-beginning of August) - http://www.francofolies.com
• Montreal Jazz Festival(beginning of July) - http://www.montrealjazzfest.com
• Festival Juste pour Rire(mid-July) - http://www.hahaha.com
• Just for laughs festival (the English counterpart of Juste pour Rire) - http://www.hahaha.com
• Montreal International Fireworks Competition (Le Mondial SAQ), in La Ronde amusement park (in Parc Jean-Drapeau), 514-397-2000 (email: info@lemondialsaq.com/). Saturdays 10PM from mid-June to late July, plus Wednesdays 10PM from mid-July on. If Montreal feels like a non-stop party during the summer, twice-weekly fireworks events definitely contribute to it. This fantastic festival features full-length fireworks displays, accompanied by orchestral music, by national teams from about a dozen countries around the world. Although the hot seats are inside the La Ronde theme park, the fireworks are visible from pretty much any clear space or rooftop in the center of the city. Pedestrians can watch from Jacques Cartier Bridge, which is closed from 8PM on fireworks nights. Another good spot is the promenade west of the Old Port. $35-45 (seats in La Ronde, free everywhere else). http://www.lemondialsaq.com/en/
• World Film Festival The Festival is open to all cinema trends. The eclectic aspect of its programming makes the Festival exciting for the growing number of participants from the five continents. Every year, films from more than seventy countries, including well known and first-time filmmakers alike, are selected. Many films have been discovered in Montreal. Starts end of August till the end of September.
• St-Jean-Baptiste fiesta On June 24th, it is the National Day of Quebec. During the evening, a huge show takes place at Maisonneuve park. The show to go to hear Made-in-Quebec music. Free.

Sports to watch

• Canadiens, Ice hockey, national Canadians sport: Bell Centre, 1260, rue De La Gauchetière (metro Lucien-L'Allier). One of the greatest monument of the Quebec culture. Also called le Tricolors, le bleu blanc rouge , les Glorieux or la Sainte Flanelle by French Canadian.
• Expos, Baseball: Olympic Stadium, 4141, avenue Pierre de Coubertin (metro Pie-IX).
• Impact, Football association (soccer): Complexe sportif Claude-Robillard, 1000, rue Émile-Journault (metro Crémazie).
• Formula 1 race every June. The city buzzes with events.
• Tennis Montreal hosts Master's ATP series event (men) each two years. The other year, Montreal hosts a WTA event (women). - http://www.tenniscanada.com/tc_splash.html

Learn

Montreal is home to one of Canada's oldest university, McGill (http://www.mcgill.ca/), which many people esteem to be "Canada's Harvard". Concordia (http://www.concordia.ca/) University is the other English-speaking university and has over 20,000 students. The University of Quebec at Montreal (http://www.uqam.ca/) (UQAM) and the University of Montreal (http://www.umontreal.ca/) cater to French-speaking students. The Université de Montréal is the second largest French university in the world, after the Sorbonne in Paris.

Work

Illegal factory work paying around $7.50 per hour is fairly easy to find in Montreal. Painting during the summer and moving furnitures in June can be interesting alternatives. McGill and Montreal universities are always in search of research subjects, and so are the many biotech firms established in Montreal.

Buy

Although Montreal's economy has bounced back in recent years, the city remains remarkably affordable compared to the rest of Canada and the United States.

The rue Sainte-Catherine, between rue Guy and boulevard Saint-Laurent, has most of the big department and chain stores as well as a few major malls. Trendier boutiques can be found on rue Saint-Denis, north of rue Sherbrooke and south of avenue Mont-Royal. Avenue Mont-Royal has funky consignment and gothic clothing stores from boulevard Saint-Laurent to rue Saint-Denis, and a mixed bag of neighborhood stores, used record shops, and gentrified boutiques heading east towards avenue Papineau.

Eat

Montreal has a huge variety of food options, from diners and fast food to low-cost ethnic restaurants to haute cuisine. The large local Jewish population has contributed local specialties including a huge smoked meat sandwich called viande fumée and small, crusty bagels. Other specialties are "all-dressed" pizza (pepperoni, mushrooms and green peppers), pizza and spaghetti with smoked meat, and Quebecois favorites like split pea soup.

No visit to Montreal is complete without at least one plate of poutine (from a French word meaning "mess"). This unique dish is a plate of French fries, drowned in gravy, and topped with chewy curds of white cheddar. There are variations on the theme -- adding chicken, beef, vegetables or sausage, or replacing the gravy with tomato sauce (poutine italienne). Every Montrealer has their favorite poutine restaurant where you can get "the real stuff."

Many Montreal restaurants require you to bring your own bottle of wine (apportez votre vin). This may sound like a hassle, but you end up paying much less for wine with dinner if you bring it yourself. There's usually a SAQ(the province's official liquor store) or a dépanneur (convenience store, with a limited selection of wine)-- nearby; ask your waiter.

To buy your own food or regional products, the Jean-Talon public market, 7075, avenue Casgrain (metro Jean-Talon or De Castelneau), is the place to go. Open from 8 AM to 6 PM all days. To buy regional products (Produits du terroir), visit Le Marché des Saveurs.

Restaurants lie thick on the ground in Montreal. A stroll down avenue Duluth or rue Prince Arthur -- (a pedestrian street) -- will turn up at least a few worth trying.

• Futenbulle, 273, rue Bernard Ouest (metro Rosemont), 514-276-0473. A unique restaurant serving an incredible variety of beers from all over the world, and a selection of venison and other game dishes - often made up modestly as venison steaks or caribou burgers or boar sandwich.
• La Banquise, 994, rue Rachel Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-525-2415. Open 24 hours. La Banquise consistently tops locals' lists for best poutine in town (perhaps because it's open for post-bar-hopping munchfests when judgement is slightly impaired). The clientele is hip and clubworn, and the staff is friendly. Poutine makes up most of the menu, but if you insist there's hamburgers and other fast-food fare. $6-10.
• Chu Chai, 4088, rue Saint-Denis (metro Sherbrooke), 514-843-4194. M-Sa 12PM-3PM, 5PM-10PM, Su 12PM-3PM, 5PM-9PM. A treat for vegetarians, vegans, and those who love them, Chu Chai specializes in Thai cuisine made with soy or vegetable protein to simulate meat. The roast "duck" is delicious, and the tom yum gai (lemongrass soup with "chicken") warms the heart. A bistro and takeout counter next door called "Chuch" has many of the same dishes in a more casual setting. Bring your own wine. $15-20 (per person, not including wine). http://www.chuchai.com/
• Toqué!, 900, place Jean-Paul-Riopelle (merto Square-Victoria), 514-499-2084. In 1993, chef Normand Laprise put Montreal cuisine on the map with this landmark restaurant, and after more than 10 years it's still going strong in a new location. Combining the latest trends in fine dining with locally-available produce, the chefs create spectacularly complex dishes in tiny but strangely satisfying portions. The house specialty is an 8-course surprise menu, made up of many small dishes that continue to delight over and over. This restaurant will take a bite out of your wallet, but serious foodies will find it worth the reputation. $30-50 ($80 menu, $100 with wine). http://www.restaurant-toque.com/
• Le 2, 2, rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Saint-Laurent), 514-843-8881. Tu-W 5PM-11PM, Th 5PM-1AM, F-Sa 5PM-3AM, Su 6PM-11PM. Le 2 (pronounced luh DOO) provides what it calls "international tapas": small, satisfying appetizer-sized plates of grilled fish and meat as well as salads, fries, and breads with spreads. One or two makes a light meal, but it's more fun to get a few plates and share them with friends over cocktails. The space isn't large, but there's an airiness to it - you don't feel squished here. A great place to start, or end, a bar-hopping evening on Saint-Laurent. $8-12 (per plate).
• La Queue de Cheval, 1221, boulevard René-Lévesque Ouest (metro Lucien-L'Allier), 514-390-0090. La Queue de Cheval is for the serious steak aficionados. It is quite possibly the best steak in North America. The ambiance is excellent, the service is absolutely incredible (they literally wait on you), the food (even non-steak items) is to-die-for. The downside is that it's not cheap and will run you $75-120 a person. http://www.queuedecheval.com/
• Milos, 5357, avenue du Parc (metro Laurier), 514-272-3522. Arguably one of Montreal's finest restaurants, Milos specializes in Greek seafood. You can order a wide variety of fresh fish by the pound, sample one of their many seafood choices or try the lamb. Milos' hallmark is the freshness of the food served and the quality of the service offered. Reservations are only essential during world class events (Formula 1, Jazz and Comedy festivals) when Milos is overrun by visiting celebrities. Milos is also a bit on the pricey side - dinner for two with wine can easily cost over $100 per person - but dining here is an exquisite experience. Best tomatoes ever - a testament to how even the most modest ingredient is considered.
• La Binerie, 367, avenue Mont-Royal Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-285-9078. A small unpretentious eatery that became a legend. It features traditional meals for under $10, especially fèves aux lard (beans cooked overnight with bacon).
• Ouzeri, 4690, rue Saint-Denis (metro Laurier), 514-845-1336. A wonderful Greek restaurant that is somewhat off the beaten path. While it is on Saint-Denis, it is far away from the shops and restaurants for which the street is well known. Ouzeri is particularly fun in the evening. Prices are very reasonable.
• Le petit extra, 1690, rue Ontario Est (metro Papineau), 514-598-0709. Exquisite French cuisine.
• Bombay Mahal, 1001, rue Jean-Talon Ouest (metro Acadie). Excellent dirt cheap Indian cuisine.
• Thaïlande, 88, rue Bernard Ouest (metro Rosemont). Great Thai. Good bang for the buck for lunch.
• Nonya, 966, rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest (metro McGill). Indonesian.
• La maison du kebab, 820, avenue Atwater (metro Lionel-Groulx). Persian. With their meal for two, you'll have enough for three!
• Soupe Soup, 80, avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Best soup and sandwich in town. Not cheap though but great quality and definitely original.
• Khyber Pass, 506, avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Afghan.
• Le Roi du Plateau (51, rue Rachel Ouest) and Chez Doval (150, rue Marie Anne Est) are the best Portuguese grill restaurants in town.
• Claude Postel, 433, rue Saint-Vincent (metro Champ-de-Mars). Amazing food, somewhat cheap for lunch. Definitely not a snack bar though.
• Euro-déli, 3619, boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Sherbrooke). Very cozy deli/cafe in the middle of the trendy section of St-Laurent. Excellent fresh pasta, meatballs, lasagna, salads, etc. Very affordable.
• L'académie, 4051, rue Saint-Denis (metro Sherbrooke). Italian food in a trendy decor. Comfortable, affordable, bring your own wine, and conveniently located beside an SAQ (Quebec liquor store). St-Denis at Duluth.
• Eduardos, 404, avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke). Good Italian restaurant, bring your wine!
• Aux Vivres, 4631, boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Mont-Royal). Alternative vegetarian cuisine.
• Byblos, 1499 avenue Laurier Est (metro Laurier), (514) 523-9396. One of the best unknown restaurant of Montreal. Prices are amazingly reasonable for the food quality. Middle east type food.
• Au pied de cochon, 536 avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke), (514) 281-1114. Modern restaurant with casual ambiance. Huge meals. The place to go for lamb and French cuisine for a reasonable price.
• Schwart's delicatessen, 3895 boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Sherbrooke). Famous delicatessen for smoked meat. Paying by cash only.
• Vents du Sud, 323, rue Roy Est (metro Sherbrooke), (514) 281-9913. Bring your wine. French restaurant with Basque country meals (St-Jean-de-Luz, Biarritz). Duck and Cassoulet exquisite.

Drink

Wine and hard alcohol can only be purchased at SAQ shops, open until 6pm Sunday - Wednesday and 8 or 9pm on weekends. Beer, and a small selection of so-called "dep wine" (not what you'd usually bring to a dinner party, but drinkable) can be purchased at corner stores and larger groceries. All retail alcohol sales stop at 11pm and bars and clubs stop serving at 3am.

Bars

Montreal has two main strips for bar-hopping. rue Crescent, just west of downtown, caters mostly to anglophones, while boulevard Saint-Laurent, especially between rue Sherbrooke and avenue des Pins, has clubs and bars with more of a francophone clientele.

• SAT (Société des arts technologiques), 1195, boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Saint-Laurent), 514-844-2033 (sat@sat.qc.ca). M-F 5PM-10PM, Sa-Su various hours. This one-of-a-kind venue is supported by the province of Quebec and the federal government to display and promote digital art. With high ceilings and low couches, it has the feel of a funky uberhip techno club, and in fact there is quite a bit of great club music on weekend nights. But there's also fascinating computer art installations going on at all times, with some video and live performances. A great place to meet people in Montreal. $4.50 draft beer, $5 well drinks, $5-25 cover (no cover before 10PM). http://www.sat.qc.ca/
• Pub Sainte-Élizabeth, 1412 rue Sainte-Élizabeth (metro Saint-Laurent). Best terrasse for a drink. Feels like a greenhouse.
• Foufounes Électriques, 87, rue Sainte-Catherine Est (metro Saint-Laurent), 514-844-5539. 3PM-3AM every day. The name means "Electric Ass" in English, which is always worth a few laughs. But Foufounes is more than just a funny name: it's ground zero for Montreal's rock-and-roll scene. The cavernous bar hosts shows from local bands as well as lots of touring shows from around the globe. Reasonable prices and a down-to-earth attitude make Foufounes popular with residents and visitors alike. $3 draft beer, $4 well drinks. http://www.foufounes.qc.ca/
• Les bobards, 4328, boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Mont-Royal). Good happy hour. Great dancing on very diversified music on Friday nights.
• Bily Kun, 354, avenue Mont-Royal Est (metro Mont-Royal), 514-845-5392. 3PM-3AM every day. Bily Kun -- the name is Czech -- is an institution in Montreal's Plateau district. Dim lighting, candles, and a huge bar give an intimate atmosphere, but Bily Kun gets hopping after 10PM with Montreal's hippest francophones practically every night. Some of the area's top DJs spin experimental or loungey techno, but there's really no dance floor to speak of. Bar staff is kooky and nice, even if no one can quite explain the ostrich heads lining the walls. $4.50 draft beers, $5 well drinks. http://www.bilykun.com/
• Old Dublin, 1219, rue University (metro McGill), 514-861-4448. 11:30AM-3AM every day. Don't let the Vieux Dublin sign outside fool you -- this pub is as Irish as it gets. There's not a lot of Emerald Island schlock around, but the pints are good, and homestyle meals for lunch and dinner really hit the spot. There's live music on weekends on the miniscule stage, but during the week it's quiet and comfy. Staff is polite and nice. $6 draft beer.
• Casa Del Popolo/La Sala Rossa, 4873, boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Laurier), 514-284-3804. Established in September 2000, Casa Del Popolo is Montréal's only family-run neighborhood vegetarian hot-spot! Part fair-trade café, part music venue, part bar, part foozball hall... The Casa and its sister venue, La Sala Rossa, frequently host touring indie artists. Shows are cheap, or even free. Try the goat cheese sandwich! http://www.casadelpopolo.com/
• Le Réservoir, 9, avenue Duluth Est (metro Sherbrooke), 514-849-7779. Brewpub. Amazing snacks.
• Dieu du Ciel, 29, avenue Laurier West (metro Laurier), 514-490-9555. Brewpub. http://www.dieuduciel.com/
• Sergent-recruteur. 4650, boulevard Saint-Laurent (metro Mont-Royal), 514-287-1412. Brewpub. Every Sunday evening, there's oral literature about myths and legend from the old French Canadian culture (Quebec's pioneer).
• L'Amère à Boire. 2049, rue Saint-Denis (metro Sherbrooke), 514-282-7448. Brewpub.
• Le Cheval Blanc. 809, rue Ontario Est (metro Sherbrooke), 514-522-0211. Brewpub
• Les 3 Brasseurs. 1658, St-Denis (metro Berri-UQAM), 514-845-1660. Brewpub and restaurant
• Brutopia. 1219, Crescent (metro Peel), 514-393-9277. Brewpub
• Le Pistol.
• Le Bifteque. Cheapest beers in town. English-speaking college crowd.

Dance Clubs

Dance clubs are often open until well after dawn, but serve only water and soda after the 3am cut-off.

• Saphir. St. Laurent. Goth and punk nights on two floors, usually very crowded.
• Sona Electronica and other live shows.
• Stereo. Electronica and other live shows.
• Aria. Electronica and other live shows.

Gay and lesbian

Montreal is an extremely inviting destination for gay and lesbian tourists (http://www.tourisme-montreal.org/B2C/00/default.asp?TitleBarItem=6). Canada's contributions to gay rights have recently become widely known, but Quebec was the first province in Canada to pass a non-discrimination law for sexual orientation and to provide same-sex civil unions.

Montreal itself is a very safe, open, and inviting city. It has the largest gay village (http://www.priape.com/montreal/index.html) in North America (rue Sainte-Catherine from rue Saint-Hubert to av. Papineau - metro Beaudry, whose entrance is marked with rainbow pillars). Montreal's pride celebration, Divers-Cité (last week of July, first week of August) is the second-largest in North America after Toronto's.

Montreal has as many gay and lesbian bars as San Francisco, and every October on Canadian Thanksgiving (Columbus Day in the US) hosts the Black and Blue circuit party, attracting thousands to enjoy the thrill of crystal meth and hordes of pretty people dressed the same as you.

Trendy gay establishments include Unity (Ste-Catherine and Montcalm), Sky (Sainte-Catherine and Alexandre-de-Sève), and Parking (Ste-Catherine and Amherst), all in the Village. Le Drugstore (1366 Ste-Catherine)is more casual and attracts a large lesbian clientele for happy hour on Fridays.

Bars catering to a male leather clientele include Stud (Sainte-Catherine and Papineau - not exclusively leather) and Aigle Noir (Sainte-Catherine and Panet).

Cabaret Mado (Sainte-Catherine and Wolfe) is a drag show with outrageous spectacles every night, run by the city's chief drag queen, Mado Lamotte.

Outside the Village, gay bars include Agora (René-Lévesque and Mackay, metro Lucien-L'Allier) and Mystique (Stanley between Sainte-Catherine and De Maisonneuve, metro Peel), both quiet, friendly neighbourhood bars in the west end of downtown.

To find out everything about what's going on, pick up a copy of Fugues, the free monthly gay magazine with a complete listing of what's on where. You can get it at Priape, the gay sex shop and unofficial information clearinghouse in the Village on Sainte-Catherine between de la Visitation and Panet. Fugues is in French; if you don't read French, ask the staff at Priape for help.

Sleep

Budget

• Home-exchange, http://www.echange-de-maison.com/search.htm, this site offers you to exchange your house with another one in the country you would like to visit. It can save you lots of money. Around 50$ for a 1 year/membership.

• Alternative Hostel, 358, rue Saint-Pierre (metro Place-d'Armes), 514-282-8069 email: info@auberge-alternative.qc.ca Unique layout and friendly staff in the old area of Montreal; kitchen and laundry facilities. $19/night for a bed in a dorm. http://www.auberge-alternative.qc.ca/

• Armor Manoir Sherbrooke, 157, rue Sherbrooke (metro Sherbrooke). US$ 50-75

• Hotel St-Denis, 1254, rue Saint-Denis (metro Berri-UQAM). US$60 - 150

Mid-range

• Hotel-studio Anne ma soeur Anne, 4119, rue Saint-Denis (metro Mont-Royal). Brand-new boutique studio-hotel. $60-150 Budget, superior, and large suites.

• A la Bonne Heure, 4425, rue Saint-Hubert (metro Mont-Royal). Charming new B&B just above Parc Lafountaine, two blocks from Mont Royal shopping, restaurants, nightlife. Only 4 rooms, so book ahead. US$60-100 double occupancy.

• Hotel de Paris, 901, rue Sherbrooke Est (metro Sherbrooke), 514-522-6861. Private bathrooms, cable TV, telephone, air-conditioning. $75 (single room, seasonal; suites $175). http://www.hotel-montreal.com/

• Major hotel chains like Four Seasons (http://www.fourseasons.com/), Holiday Inn (http://www.holiday-inn.com/), and Delta Hotels (http://www.deltahotels.com/) have locations in the heart of downtown Montreal.

• Studio apartment $390.CAD / week. Great location on the Plateau Mont-Royal http://pages.infinit.net/newman/studiopage.htm

Splurge

• Auberge de La Fontaine, 1301, rue Rachel Est. Fun B&B with 25 rooms. Located on the Plateau and across the street from Parc Lafontaine. CND$ 100-280.

• Montreal Intercontinental, 360, rue Saint-Antoine Ouest (metro Place-d'Armes).

• Auberge Vieux Port, 97, rue de la Commune Est (metro Champ-de-Mars).

• Hotel St-Paul, 355, rue McGill (metro Square-Victoria) is a recently renovated hotel in the heart of Old Montreal. Ultra-modern and sleek design. http://www.hotelstpaul.com/

• Montreal Hyatt Desjardins

Get out

Montreal makes an excellent entryway for visiting other cities and destinations in Quebec. Quebec City, about 3 hours to the north east on Highway 40, is almost but not quite a day trip -- you'll want to stay over, anyways. Mont Tremblant lies less than 2 hours north in the Laurentides, while the Eastern Townships are about the same distance straight east. If you're continuing to Ontario, Ottawa is 2 hours west by car, and Toronto is more distant, but still doable, 6 hour drives. Boston is a five and a half hour drive to the southeast.

External links

• http://www.tourisme-montreal.org/ -- Official Web site for Montreal tourism
• http://www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/mtlcarte/mac_mac.shtm -- Extremely detailed neighbourhood maps in .pdf format of several Montreal neighbourhoods. These maps are posted on kiosks around the city and show all major landmarks.