Dublin
From Imakoopedia
Dublin is the thriving capital city of the Republic of Ireland. It is on a par with many bigger European cities in terms of its vibrancy, its nightlife and its tourist attractions, and is the most popular entry point for international visitors to Ireland. As a city it is disproportionately large for the size of the country; almost a third of the Republic's population lives in the greater Dublin area. The centre is however relatively small and can be navigated by foot, with most of the population living in sprawling suburbs.
| Table of contents |
Get in
By plane
Dublin is served by a single terminal airport (http://www.dub.aero) approximately 10km north of the city, although a second terminal is proposed. Low cost airline Ryanair (http://www.ryanair.com) flies to Dublin from just about every regional airport in the UK as well as a handful on the European continent, while national flag carrier Aer Lingus (http://www.aerlingus.com) flies to Dublin from a large number of European cities and a handful in North America. Due to heavy competition from Ryanair, Aer Lingus has relatively low fares for a national flag carrier and can occasionally have Ryanair-style seat sales. A full list of airlines flying to Dublin, along with timetables, can be found on the Dublin airport website. If you are flying long-haul, you might also consider changing in London as the London-Dublin route is particularly well served with regular flights.
A blue Aircoach (http://www.aircoach.ie) express service connects to the city centre and many of Dublin's major hotels, most of which are on the south side of the city. Buses leave every 15 minutes and the journey time to the centre is approximately 30 minutes. The cost is €7 single or €12 return.
Dublin Bus (http://www.dublinbus.ie) offer an express AirLink service every 10 minutes at peak times to the city centre and bus station for €5. They also offer substantially cheaper standard services to the centre and further afield in the southern suburbs, but these are non-express, infrequent, and take a rather circuitous route to and from the airport. Cost is circa €1.50. These may be worth getting if you are on a tight budget and they happen to be leaving shortly after you arrive.
A taxi to the city centre should cost around €20-25 - as such it can be comparable/cheaper than the bus options if you are in a group of three or more (as well as a lot less hassle).
All services to the airport have been adversely affected for the last few years by ongoing tunnel construction on the airport motorway, so it is advisable to leave plenty of time before your flight when returning to the airport.
A metro system connecting Dublin Airport to the city centre is planned for the future, but no work has started on this yet.
By train
Dublin has two main train (http://www.irishrail.ie) stations: Heuston, in the far west of the city, serves much of the west of the country and Cork while Connolly in the north-east centre of the city serves the east coast, Belfast, suburban commuter services, and, oddly, Sligo in the west.
By bus
The single bus station, Busáras, serves the entire country and is next to Connolly train station.
By boat
Some ferry services service Dublin port, but more popular is the suburban port of Dún Laoghaire 10km south of Dublin city.
Orientation
Dublin has the unique distinction of being the only place in Ireland with postcodes, although these only reach double digits. They range from Dublin 1 to Dublin 24; odd numbers are given to the city centre north of the river Liffey, while even numbers are given to areas south of the river.
A good online map and journey planner is available from the Dublin Transportation Office (http://www.dto-journeyplanner.ie). If you zoom in on the map you can get aerial photography of the city.
Get around
Public transportation has improved massively over the last few years but is still worse than in other European cities. This is more of a problem for the commuter than the visitor to Dublin, however, as the centre of the city is easily walkable.
A suburban rail service called the DART (http://www.dart.ie/) runs along the coast between Greystones in the south (already County Dublin) and Howth in the north.
Another rail service is called the Luas (http://www.luas.ie/). The first, 'green' line of the new tram system was opened at the end of June 2004 and runs between St. Stephen's Green and Sandyford (city centre to south-east). The second, 'red' line, from Connolly Station to Tallaght, opened on the 4th October (city centre to south-west). Here is the route map (http://www.luas.ie/document/index.asp?head=1).
Taxis were recently (2001) deregulated and are relatively easy to come by, although not as easily as in some other European cities. They may be ordered by telephone, at ranks, or just hailed on the street.
Driving in Dublin is not to be recommended, particularly in the city centre. Traffic is heavy and there is an extensive one-way system explicitly designed to make it very difficult for cars to enter the city centre (buses, taxis, motor and pedal cycles are exempt). It can be difficult to find parking and the clampers pursue their work with an almost religious zeal. A system of two ring roads around the city has been introduced in recent years, with colour coded signage in purple and blue.
Dublin has a large student population and is relatively cycle-friendly. Hiring a bicycle would be a handy way to get around if you want to get outside the very centre of the city and are comfortable cycling in traffic.
See
- The National Gallery of Ireland (http://www.nationalgallery.ie/) Merrion Square West, Dublin 2
- Irish Museum of Modern Art (http://www.modernart.ie/) Kilmainham, Dublin 8
- Trinity College (http://www.tcd.ie) College Green, Dublin 2 -- the book of Kells is a highlight
- Dublin Castle
- Christ Church Cathedral, Christ Church Place, 01 677 8099 (email@ccdub.ie), dating back to the 11th century, is the oldest building in Dublin, though it underwent a massive restoration in the 19th century. Particularly interesting is the crypt, which predates the cathedral.
- Kilmainham Gaol
Do
- Viking Splash Tours (http://www.vikingsplashtours.com/) run tours on the city and river in World War II amphibious craft - a bit different than your regular tour bus.
- Hop On (http://www.dublinbus.ie/your_journey/dublin_city_tour.asp) the open top bus tour around the city. Stops at all of the major tourist spots, and you can hop off and on as often as you like. The bus drivers are very funny too - a great way to get a feel for the layout of Dublin, and reasonable (especially if booked in advance with your hotel or ferry crossing).
- The Zozimus Experience (http://www.zozimus.com/), 01 661 8646(info@zozimus.com), is a theatrical ghost tour of Dublin, guided by none other than the blind, early 20th century storyteller Zozimus. It departs nightly from Dublin Castle, at sun-down. Advance booking is required, and an exact meeting time will be given when you book.
- Historical Walking Tour of Dublin. Meet at the west gate to Trinity College. The tours are led by knowledgeable graduate students from the College who tell the story of Ireland's history during a ramble through the south side of the Liffey.
Buy
Dublin's main shopping street is the pedestrianised Grafton Street, which runs between St. Stephen's Green and Trinity College. On this street can be found Dublin's most famous (and expensive) department store, Brown Thomas, along with a wide range of clothing shops, jewellers, photo shops, etc.
Alongside Trinity College you will find Nassau Street where there are many shops selling tourist related items such as Waterford Crystal, Belleek China, Aran sweaters and other Irish craft items. Shops to look out for selling these items include House of Ireland (http://www.houseofireland.com/), Blarney Woollen Mills and Kilkenny Design.
The Powerscourt Centre (http://www.powerscourtcentre.com/), just off Grafton Street, is easily Dublin's most attractive shopping centre, set in a beautifully restored 18th century town house. Here you will find clothes, cafes, galleries and Irish designer jewellers. Beware the overpriced antique dealers, some of whom will drop a price by 50% after only the merest suggestion that you are willing to haggle (and it still may not be a bargain!)
Dublin is in no way cheap for general shopping, although visitors from outside the European Union can obtain a refund of VAT (sales tax - 21%) on their purchases. Just look for the refund sign and ask in the shop for details.
Eat
Dublin has a wide range of good quality restaurants, most of which are, however, horribly overpriced by European standards. Main course prices range from €10 at the lower end up to around €40 at the higher end. Wine in restaurants is generally marked up from its already expensive retail price by a factor of at least two, and three times retail price would not be uncommon.
There are many excellent-value Indian restaurants around the South William Street area, parallel to Grafton Street; these often have particularly good value lunch and 'early bird' deals, offering 3 course meals for around €10. Quality is high - particularly to be recommended are the Khyber Tandoori on South William Street and Shalimar on South Great Georges Street.
Snack
- Butlers Chocolate Cafés South William Street (2 branches) & Dublin Airport; Takeaway on Grafton Street and Nassau Street. -- Good coffee with a free chocolate of your choice (except at Dublin Airport, where you still get a chocolate, but don't get a choice.) The airport branch is well stocked and generally runs special offers on boxes of chocolates which are not available in the city branches.
- Bewley's Cafés Grafton Street, Westmoreland Street, Jervis Street, Ballsbridge & Dublin Airport. -- Dublin's most famous café, frequented by such famous Irish writers as James Joyce, Patrick Kavanagh and Brendan Behan. The coffee is good (if a little expensive), and a variety of cakes and buns are available, as well as packaged tea and coffee. Light meals are available throughout the day.
Lunch
- Lemon Crèpe Company South William Street, Dublin 2 -- Good value filled crèpes for around €4 (American style rather than French).
- Dunne & Crescenzi South Frederick Street, Dublin 2 -- Delightful Italian lunch spot, open until around 8pm, but arrive early if you want to get a seat - or be prepared for a long wait. Antipasto Misto €6.50, Paninis from €4. Glass of house wine €3.50.
- Unicorn Food Company Merrion Row, Dublin 2 -- Take-away deli with eat-in cafe next door. Sandwiches €4-5 or a range of Italian delights - pasta, lasagna, pizza, salads. Sometimes good cakes €2.50-€2.85. The deli is attached to the well-respected Unicorn Italian restaurant down the lane beside the deli (open for lunch and dinner).
Dinner
- Il Baccaro Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 -- good value and atmospheric Italian restaurant set in a vaulted cellar under the Irish Film Institute. Mains around €10-15 - particularly to be recommended is the sausages and beans.
- Salamanca St. Andrews Street, Dublin 2 -- good value, tasty and substantial tapas (sized more like raciones), priced around €4-8. The steak is a particular bargain at €7.50; also good are the chorizo dishes.
- The Bistro (http://www.thebistro.ie/) 4/5 Castlemarket, 6776016, Excellent continental cuisine, good atmosphere. Main courses €15-25.
Drink
No visit to Dublin would be complete without a visit to one (or ten) of its many pubs. Drink is relatively expensive: a pint of stout costs around €4 and up, while lager costs around €4.50 and up. Pubs are open until 11.30pm during the week, and as late as around 2am on weekends, depending on the pub. Smoking has been illegal in Irish pubs (as well as all indoor workplaces) since March 2004; this has had the positive side effect of increasing al fresco facilities.
Traditional
- O'Donoghue's Baggot Street, Dublin 2
- Grogan's South William Street, Dublin 2
Modern
- The Odeon Harcourt Street, Dublin 2 -- this attractive bar at the top of Harcourt Street is housed in a converted railway station; the new tram system has a stop directly outside.
- Ba Mizu South William Street, Dublin 2 -- exactly opposite Grogan's, in the Powerscourt Townhouse shopping centre; quite a contrast.
- Café en Seine Dawson Street, Dublin 2 -- typical, and not entirely unpleasant, example of a Dublin 'megapub'; recently extended to include tropical trees at the back.
Brewpubs
- The Porterhouse Parliament Street, Dublin 2 -- as well as good indigenous brews, there is an extensive Belgian beer list.
- Messrs. Maguire Burgh Quay, Dublin 2 -- very near to O'Connell Bridge, they produce a very good stout quite different to Guinness; fresher and more complex.
Sleep
Fáilte Ireland (http://www.ireland.ie), the Irish tourist office, has a good online accommodation finder.
- Ashfield House (http://www.ashfieldhouse.ie/), 19/20 D'Olier Street, (a half block southeast of the O'Connell Street Bridge) 01 6797734 (fax 01 6790852, email ashfield@indigo.ie) has basic accommodation starting at €13, in a great location roughly a block away each of, in different directions obviously, O'Connell Street, Trinity College and the Temple Bar. Private rooms are also available. The dorms are clean, but unusually large, as the cheapest have 14 beds. The cost includes a croissant and orange juice for breakfast.
Get out
Wicklow, within easy reach to the south of Dublin, is known as 'the garden of Ireland' and has good mountain walking and some of the most spectacular scenery in the country. The gardens and waterfall of Powerscourt (http://www.powerscourt.ie/) are a popular visit, located near the town of Enniskerry 20km south of Dublin, while the town of Glendalough contains an important monastic settlement.
The Brú na Bóinne megalithic tombs of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth are the most important archaeological sites in Ireland and are listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage site. The site is located 50km north of Dublin on the banks of the Boyne.
External links
- Official Dublin Tourism (http://www.visitdublin.com)
- Fáilte Ireland (http://www.ireland.ie) -- the Irish tourist office
