Chiang Mai
From Imakoopedia
Chiang Mai is the gateway to Northern Thailand, some 700 km from Bangkok. With a population of 170,000, Chiang Mai is a fairly sizeable town with a cosmopolitan air and a significant expat population, but it's much greener and quieter than Bangkok. Located on a plain surrounded by mountains, the peak of Doi Suthep looms just 13 kilometers away.
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Orientation
Chiang Mai's historical center is the walled city (chiang in Thai, hence Chiang Mai "New Walled City"). Sections of the wall remain at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains. Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but particularly to the east towards the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping).
Get in
By plane
Chiang Mai's airport (IATA code CNX) connects to most Thai cities of importance and receives some international flights from countries in the region as well. The route from Bangkok is among the most heavily traveled in the country: THAI flies almost hourly and all the low-cost carriers ply the route as well. A one-way flight from Bangkok will set you back 1000-2000B.
The airport is some 3 km southwest of the city center, only 10-15 minutes away by car. Legal airport taxis charge a flat 100B for up to 5 passengers anywhere in the city; alternatively, charter a tuk-tuk or songthaew for 50-60 B. Most hotels and guesthouses offer cheap or free pick-up/drop-off services.
By bus
Buses to Chiang Mai leave from Bangkok's northern Mo Chit terminal. The cheapest, non-air-con, stop-everywhere government buses start at 200B and 12 hours, with rates climbing up to 625B non-stop VIP 24-seaters that manage the trip in 9 on a good day.
By train
Various rapid, express and sleeper services leave from Bangkok's Hualamphong station, taking 11+ hours for the trip. Pricing is complex, but example fares are 461B for a non-air-con 2nd class sleeper upper berth and 1113B for 1st class with a private cabin.
Get around
Chiang Mai's public transportation system could use some work: there are no commuter trains, no buses and no taxis. A long-planned LRT system remains only a plan.
By songthaew
The most popular transportation option is thus the red songthaew, a converted pick-up truck with seating for 8-12. Cheap and flexible, the problem is figuring out where they go: only those going to Doi Suthep are clearly marked in English, the rest just cruise along major arteries picking up and dropping off passengers, so you have to flag them all down and hope they're going your way. One convenient route runs counterclockwise along the city walls. Traveling along a route is usually 10B, while chartering a whole truck to go somewhere is 50-plus.
By tuk-tuk or samlor
Tuk-tuks serve as Chiang Mai's taxis, going point to point for 30B and up depending on your haggling skills. A few three-wheeled bicycles (samlor) still cruise the streets and will go your way for the same price.
See
Chiang Mai has over 300 temples.
- Wat Phra Singh (west end of Th Ratchadamnoen) is probably Chiang Mai's best-known temple, housing the Phra Singh image completed between 1385 and 1400. Of particular note historically is Wihaan Lai Kham in the back, featuring Lanna-style temple murals and intricate gold patterns on red lacquer behind the altar.
- It's also worth visiting a few of the less popular temples, quiet and gently crumbling in the absence of tourist hordes. A typical example is the atmospheric wooden Wat Phra Jao Mengrai, on a side street off Th Ratchamankha near the Huan Phen restaurant.
- Doi Suthep (Mt. Suthep, 1676m) is a very popular half-day excursion from the city. Near the summit is Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a magnificent temple established in 1383 and featuring a large gold-plated chedi visible from the city on a good day. Entrance to the temple costs 30B for foreigners, although this is not strictly enforced, plus an optional 20B if you take the cable car instead of climbing the final 300 steps. Clearly marked songthaews to Doi Suthep leave from Pratu Chang Phuak, passing Chiang Mai University and the Zoo on the way. Prices are fixed at 40B up and 30B down, although the drivers will wait for more (up to 8) passengers until leaving.
Do
Chiang Mai is a popular place for arranging hill trekking. As usual in Thai cities massage places abound, both for treatments and learning the art yourself.
- Let's Relax (2F Chiang Mai Pavilion and B1 Chiang Inn Plaza, both on Th Chang Khlan) does professional massage in very clean if not downright sterile surroundings complete with air-con, the sound of running water and gentle scents. A bit more expensive than the competition: figure on 250B/hour.
- The energetic and adventurous can also learn Muay Thai, or Thai Boxing, the national sport of Thailand at Lanna Muay Thai (http://www.lannamuaythai.com), which is situated along Soi Chiang Khian, off Huay Kaew Road.
Buy
- The massive Night Bazaar is not just a place to shop, but possibly Chiang Mai's largest tourist attraction. The market covers a long stretch of Th Chang Khlan between Th Tha Phae and Th Si Donchai, but the center of the maelstrom is the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar Building, three stories of shopping under a Thai temple-style roof. Products from northern Thailand and neighboring countries are widely available. especially those associated with Thailand's hill tribes; take all claims with a grain of salt and bargain hard for good prices.
- The less publicised Sunday Market takes place every, yes, Sunday. Locals set up stalls in an impressive number of streets on the inner-east side of the moat. There are stalls selling everything the night market does with less hassle from the sellers (as can become too much at the busy night market).
Eat
Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles in curry broth with chicken or beef.
Cheap eats
- The Galare Food Centre (Th Chang Khlan, opposite the Night Bazaar Building) has a large open-air food court, featuring free Thai classical dance performances nightly. All food is paid for with coupons; most mains 20-50B.
- Kuaytiaw Reua Koliang (Th Moon Muang near Th Ratchamankha, no English sign) serves authentic kuaytiow reua (lit. "boat noodles", rice noodles in dark broth with beef). Contrary to Lonely Planet's claims the accompanying veggies are kailan, not ganja, but it's good stuff anyway at 25B a pop.
Restaurants
- Huan Phen (112 Th Ratchamankha) specializes in Northern Thai food. Very popular and very cheap: a bowl of khanom jiin naam ngiaw (Shan-style pork rib noodles), a plate of som tum (green papaya salad) and some sticky rice will still leave you change from 50 baht! Open 8 AM-3 PM, 5 PM-10 PM daily.
- On the east bank of the Ping River north of Nawarat Bridge is a cluster of restaurants, the best known of which are the Riverside (http://www.theriversidechiangmai.com/) and the Good View (http://www.goodview.co.th/). Both indeed offer good views from the riverside, live music and extensive menus covering Thai and farang food, with most mains around 100B. The Riverside also offers a nightly dinner cruise departing at 8 PM for 70B/person extra.
External Link
- Chanchao's Chiang Mai Food Review (http://chanchao.fotopages.com/) Reviews of restaurants and Thai food stalls by Chanchao a resident of Chiang Mai for many years.
Drink
Chiang Mai's nightlife scene is the most happening in the North... which admittedly isn't saying very much.
- The Bubbles disco (B1, Porn Ping Tower, 46 Th Charoen Prathet) would be just another cheesy hotel disco if not for some good DJs and enthusiastic crowds; now it's cheesy, packed and fun hotel disco on weekend nights. Cover 100B including one drink, open until 2 AM.
- The Underworld.
Sleep
Accommodation in Chiang Mai is generally cheap even by Thai standards.
Budget
- Hollanda Montri Guesthouse (http://come.to/hollandamontri) (365 Charoenrat Rd. Tel: +66-(0)53242450). Family style guesthouse with a tropical garden on the banks of the Mae Ping River. Fan/air-con rooms 280/380 baht.
Mid-range
- Pornping Tower, 46-48 Charoenprathed Road., 053 270099 (fax: 053 270119). The Pornping Tower offers not only an amusing name, but slowly fading grandeur at affordable prices. Located near the Night Bazaar, the hotel has a pool and the Bubbles disco, among the most popular in Chiang Mai -- and a source of some noise pollution if trying to sleep. The newer and quieter Tower Wing is a bit more expensive than the older Front Wing. B1000 and up (with breakfast). http://www.pornpinghotelchiangmai.com/
