Bangkok/Rattanakosin
From Imakoopedia
Rattanakosin Island is where King Rama I built his new capital in 1782. The core of historical Bangkok, this is where most of Bangkok's "must see" sights can be found. The district borders the Chao Phraya River on the west, but land reclamation has long since joined the eastern bank to the mainland.
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Get in
The best way to access most of the sights in Rattanakosin is to take the Chao Phraya River Express, which run from the BTS Saphan Taksin station up and down the river. The most important pier is Tha Tien, from where you can walk to Wat Pho or the Grand Palace, or take a 2-baht shuttle ferry across the river to Wat Arun. Alternatively, you can take the Saen Saep canal boat to its western terminus near the Golden Mount (Wat Saket), from where the big temples are a brisk stroll or short tuk-tuk hop away.
The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are a 20 minute walk from Khao San Road, but a confusing and hot one if you aren't familiar with the area. If you decide to take a tuk-tuk, don't listen to anyone telling you they are closed for 'Buddhist holiday' or only in the afternoon. Both sights are open everyday, pretty much all day (dawn till dusk). It's worth giving each place a full day since the heat and glare are very wearing and there is a lot to take in.
There are no Skytrain or subway stations in the area, although several extensions are planned.
See
- The Grand Palace containing Wat Phra Kaew (aka The Temple of the Emerald Buddha) is the former residence of the King and the home to a diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha, revered as the symbol of the state. Visitors line up around the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with offerings of lilies and incense. The wat is actually series of courtyards full of chedi towers in gold and broken porcelain and smaller wats containing Buddhas of various poise and size. Also check out the enormous mural of the Ramayana decorating the exterior wall of the Wat Phra Kaew (part of the Grand Palace compound). Entry is a steep 200 baht; Thais get in for free. The palace is open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM.
- Adjacent to the Grand Palace, the largest reclining Buddha in Asia at Wat Po is a mind blowing sight. There's plenty of other stuff to see inside the large temple complex; above all, try a massage or sign up for a course in the massage school at the back. Entry is only 20 baht and it is also open from 8 AM to 5 PM.
- Across the river is the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun), a distinctive single spike of white intricately inlaid with broken porcelain and at 88 meters the tallest structure in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper.
- Somewhat off the beaten track but well worth a visit is Wat Rajanadda, very close to the Saen Saep canal boat terminus and the Golden Mount, and easily spotted since its spires are of black iron, not the usual glittery gold. The wat itself is a 5-storied gleaming white structure with rows of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm and relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. Entrance is free; also check out the Buddhist amulet market nearby.
Eat
There aren't very many places to eat in the Old City. The riverside hotels (see Sleep) have the usual panoply of restaurants but at rather steep prices, although the Oriental's dinner buffet (B1000+) is justly famous.
Drink
- Jazz lovers will want to stop by the Oriental's surprisingly small and intimate Bamboo Bar for classy colonial surroundings, live music and a Cuban cigar. Needless to say, at B250 a Singha here will be the most expensive beer you'll find in Bangkok.
Buy
- River City Complex, easily accessible from its own pier for the River Express boat, has Bangkok's best collection of antique shops -- but these are (for most part) the real thing and priced to match. Note that real antiques and any religious images will require export licenses, although the shops can arrange this for you (for a fee).
- Old Maps & Prints (Shop 412, 4F) has a fascinating collection of (surprise surprise) old maps with an emphasis on Thailand and South-East Asia, but anything over a century old will set you back several thousand baht.
Sleep
Budget
Budget guesthouses and such are clustered on Khao San Road, covered on a separate page.
Luxury
The southern part of the river near the Sathorn Bridge has two of the world's best hotels, and not a few lesser lights.
- Oriental Bangkok (http://www.mandarin-oriental.com/bangkok/) is often ranked as the best hotel in the world, and is known particularly for its superlative service. Prices are consequently on the steep side: even the cheapest Internet rates are rarely below $300 a night. The hotel is on the east side of the river with its own River Express stop (Tha Oriental).
- Just across the river, newer competitor Peninsula Bangkok (http://bangkok.peninsula.com/) has nudged the Oriental out of its top spot a few times. Prices are a little more sensible but still usually above $200. Free shuttle service to the BTS Saphan Taksin stop.
- Shangri-La Bangkok (http://www.shangri-la.com/eng/hotel/38/), definitely also a 5 star hotel but not quite as superlative as the Oriental or the Pen, makes up partly with an excellent location next to both Skytrain and river boat. Prices start from $120.
See also
- One day in Bangkok — a half-day itinerary for Rattanakosin included
