Ayutthaya
From Imakoopedia
Ayutthaya (อยุธยา) is an ancient capital and modern city in the Central Plains of Thailand, 85 km to the north of Bangkok.
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Understand
Founded by King U-Thong in 1350 within a bend of the Chao Phraya river, Ayutthaya was the capital of the Thai kingdom at its mightiest. Conquered and sacked by the Burmese in 1767, today only ruins of its splendor remain.
Among Thai cities, Ayutthaya's English name is probably the least standardized. Ayutthaya, Ayuttaya, Ayuthaya, Ayutaya, Ayothaya, Ayotaya, Ayudhya and even the Sanskrit original Ayodhya (usually referring to the Indian city) are all used.
Get in
By train
The cheapest and most colorful way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. All north and northeast line trains depart from Bangkok's Hualamphong station and stop in Ayutthaya, a trip of about 1.5 hours. Second class costs 35 baht (reserve seat in advance), while third class is just 20 baht (no reservations).
Ayutthaya's train station is to the east of the central island. The easiest way to get to central Naresuan Rd is to walk straight ahead from the station and take the cross-river ferry for 2 baht.
By bus
Buses operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Mor Chit) directly to Ayutthaya. First class air-con buses charge 45 baht, while second class is 35. Allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok.
In Ayutthaya, the central BKS bus station is on the south side of Th Naresuan next to the Chao Phrom Market. Minibus-songthaews to Bang Pa-In also leave from here. Some 1st-class buses to Bangkok, however, leave from the north side of the road some 500m to the west, on the other side of the khlong (canal); the queue of air-con buses is easy to spot.
By boat
Cruise boats run up the river from Bangkok, often stopping at Ko Kret and Bang Pa-In along the way. You'll need to book in advance as there are no scheduled services, just trips for tourists. It's a fairly lengthy trip (at least one whole day) and some of the larger boats offer (pricy) overnight tours.
Get around
It is advised to rent a bicycle. You should get a copy of a map for free at the shop that rents you the bicycle. Alternatively, you can hop around town by tuk-tuk or motorbike for 20-30 baht a pop. Ayutthaya's tuk-tuks are larger than the Bangkok variety and you can easily squeeze in four or more on the two songthaew-style facing benches.
See
All of Ayutthaya's sites are on the protected western half of the island, while the modern city sprawls to the east.
Temples
All the temples listed below are in ruins and no longer in active use, so no dress codes are enforced — although visitors are still requested to refrain from blatant stupidity like clambering up the Buddha statues. Most charge a 30 baht entrance fee, although enforcement is rather lax.
- Wat Phra Si Samphet (Sri Samphet Rd) is the largest temple in Ayutthaya, known for its row of chedis (Thai-style stupas). Housed within the grounds of the former royal palace, the wat was used only for royal religious ceremonies. It once housed a 16-meter Buddha covered with 340 kg of gold, but the Burmese set fire to the statue to melt the gold and destroyed the temple in the process.
- Wat Ratchaburana (Naresuan Rd) stands out for having a large prang recently restored to its original condition, clearly visible if you come in from the east. A major find of golden statues and other paraphernalia was made here in 1958, although much was subsequently stolen by robbers — the remnants are now in the Chao Sam Phraya Museum. You can climb inside the prang for nice views and a little exhibit. The mysterious staircase down, however, doesn't lead anywhere.
- Wat Phra Mahathat (Naresuan Rd), across the road from Wat Ratburana, is a large temple that was quite thoroughly ransacked by the Burmese. Several Leaning Prangs of Ayutthaya are still feebly defying gravity though, and the rows of headless Buddhas are atmospheric. This is also where you can spot the famous tree that has grown around a Buddha head.
Museums
- Chao Sam Phraya Museum (Rojana Rd) is where you can find some of the Buddha heads that are so conspicuously missing at the sites themselves. Opened in 1961 and looks the part. Perhaps the most interesting displays are the golden regalia from Wat Ratchaburana, on the 2nd floor of Hall 1. Open Wed-Sun from 9 AM to 4 PM, entrance 30 baht.
- Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre (Rojana Rd), across the road and to the east of the Chao Sam Phraya museum, is a more modern museum that tries to depict life in Ayutthaya with models. A good place to start or end your tour, but a little pricy (by Thai standards) at 100 baht.
Buy
- Chao Phrom Market, on the corner of Naresuan and Uthong Roads on the east edge of the island, is a bustling provincial market. There are particularl many protective Buddha amulet vendors here.
Eat
- Siam Restaurant (Chee Kun Rd) serves unremarkable Thai and Vietnamese food, but makes up for it with an excellent location with views of Wat Mahathat as you eat, air conditioning, and possibly the best toilets in the city. Most mains 50-100 baht.
Sleep
There are a reasonable number of guesthouses available, but not much in the upper price brackets. Many people choose to day-trip from Bangkok.
Get out
- The eccentric palace of Bang Pa-In, 20 km to the south, is 40-minute songthaew ride away.
External links
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